Sonoma County, California has a motto we really embraced: Life Opens Up. Much like the concept of opening a bottle of wine to let it breathe and become its best, so, too, can people! We found Sonoma perfect for allowing ourselves to see new things, have new experiences, meet new people who expanded our horizons, get in touch with nature in stunning ways and, of course, explore new culinary treats, local to the area. Follow along, using our Editor’s Pick itinerary as your guide, for planning four perfect days in Sonoma County, California. With evidence of past seasons of wildfire barely visible, Sonoma County is alive, well, thriving, and certainly open for business. And for many people across the country, it’s easier than ever to get there.

Life really does open up in Sonoma County and we had the hat to prove it – and the experiences.

How to Spend 4 Perfect Days in Sonoma County:

Day 1: Settling In

We arrived mid-morning on a United Airlines direct flight from Denver, Colorado, to the small and efficient Charles Schulz Regional Sonoma County Airport. There was no need to figure out how to navigate the airport – it’s basically all in one room and everything is clearly labelled, including the rental car stations. There’s even a little bistro attached where flyers were enjoying a leisurely lunch and glass of wine on the shady patio. We would have had lunch there but we had a bigger treat in store.

United flies direct to Sonoma County from several cities including Denver Dallas, and Minneapolis, with more being added.

A fantastic way to dive right into your Sonoma experience and get to know the area, the history, some restaurants, the variety of food, and merchants, is with a food tour. Our guide was Renee ReBell, the founder of Gourmet Food & Wine Tours,  who planned five stops, for our intimate group. Each stop presented a very different kind of cuisine, each expertly paired with wine, and atmosphere. Along the way, we stopped into a museum, and a chocolate shop whose truffles we’d soon be pairing with wine at our last stop. It was a great way to get a grasp of the area and all that we’d be experiencing the next couple of days.

Delhi Belly Indian Bistro was one of the stops on our “Sonoma Food and Wine Tour Downtown” with Renee from Gourmet Food & Wine Tours.

The Tour visited the El Dorado Kitchen for wine and some bites to eat. Each restaurant on the tour is very different in decor, cuisine, and vibe.

Where to stay on Day 1 in Sonoma County:
Even as you pull in the drive, the Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn & Spa presents itself to you, dramatically. Meandering, lush grounds greet you and line the paths to your room. The centerpiece to our room was a romantic tub for two (or one who really shouldn’t have to share) between the sleep/living area and the bathroom. French doors opened out to a private terrace overlooking a Mediterranean fountain and beautiful flowers. After a quick dip in the pool, we were off to dinner at Santé Restaurant for a relaxed wine pairing dinner. As we chose each course, our unpretentious and warm sommelier customized the pairing choices to the options we’d chosen. Each course was paced perfectly to allow us to enjoy a wonderful dinner in a pretty atmosphere with purplish hues, perfect as the sun sets.

Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn offers charming patios, lush gardens, and beautiful views.

Prawns, salad, and a chilled strawberry soup are just some of the seasonal courses at dinner at Sante Restaurant at Fairmont Sonoma Mission Inn.

The chefs take advantage of whatever is in season and local when creating the menu at Sante, like this dramatic twist on Baked Alaska.

Day 2: Coastal Drive
Sonoma County includes mile after mile of stunning coastline and beaches and we couldn’t wait to see it all. But first, olive oil! We started our day by heading to The Olive Press across the street from a winery we’d stopped at years ago, Cline Family Cellars (whose Ancient Vines Mourvèdre became, and still is, a sentimental favorite for us). Located in an impressive building modeled after a Tuscan Villa, The Olive Press shares space with Jacuzzi Wines (yes, the bubbly tub is named after this family). Although I’ve cooked with olive oil all my life and come from a long line of olive oil lovers, turns out there was so much I didn’t know. A quick tour educated me about the interesting and laborious process that goes into making this precious liquid. Watch the video below, graciously provided to us by The Olive Press, to get a glimpse of the process. In the shop, taste the various olive oils and notice the differences and imagine all the ways you can use them (staff will assist you and give you tips). We were told that when you get a “zing” in your throat, that’s the sign of good, fresh olive oil that is activating receptors in your throat that sense anti-oxidants.

The Olive Press is housed inside the beautiful building it shares with Jacuzzi Wine.

Just outside of Sonoma, we stopped at Angelo’s Wine Country Deli, which looked more like a glorified roadside stand, but is an institution, and grabbed a couple of delicious sandwiches to take on our coastal drive. A few miles further and we couldn’t resist one more pit stop when we saw the Sunset Magazine Test Gardens. For fans of the magazine, like us, it was as if we’d walked right into the pages, seeing real, live, and fragrant, themed gardens and outdoor living areas. (The countryside here tempts you to stop frequently for picture-perfect sights, so plan accordingly and beware if you have a tight itinerary!)

“White Cloud,” a sculpture from Cao Perrot Studios, with crystals dangling like rain drops, above cactus and fine, white stone, was at the Sunset magazine Test Gardens.

See a variety of styles of landscape at the Sunset magazine Test Garden, including vineyards and hillside in the background.

Enough distractions (wonderful though they were)! Next stop: Armstrong Redwoods State Natural Reserve, aka Armstrong Woods. We paid the $10 entry fee and drove around on the mostly-paved roads, passing hikers. After a very brief hike (a longer one would have been wonderful and varying difficulties of hike are available), we sat in a picnic area, looking up, up, up, appreciating just how small we are compared to these magnificent redwoods. The oldest tree in the Reserve, “Colonel Armstrong,” is more than 1,400 years old!

My husband stands near the base of one of the Redwood trees in Armstrong Woods. They are just massive!

To reach the coast, we drove along River Road which meanders alongside the Russian River through dense forests until it suddenly opens up to reveal the estuary where the river flows into the Pacific. Turning right onto Highway 1 (the famed Pacific Coast Highway), we pulled over at the Jenner Headlands gate for a mild hike and gorgeous views of the Pacific Ocean. Though we were tempted to keep driving for more dramatic coastal views along Highway 1, we resisted the urge to explore more and instead turned back and headed for dinner.

The Jenner Headlands offers amazing views of the Pacific Ocean.

Just past the Jenner Headlands, on the Pacific Coast Highway, you’ll find views like this.

You’ll find Francesco Torre (what a wonderful name) in the bustling, open kitchen just to the right when you enter Canneti Roadhouse Italiana. We were led through two rustic, charming rooms to what felt like a friend’s very awesome backyard. Lots of plants, a makeshift bar to one side, tables set here and there, strings of party lights and blankets ready if you catch a chill. The food was delicious – hearty but inventive. The locals eat there (we got into conversations with several and were even invited to join a group for coffee) so that should tell you a lot.

Whether with friends or your sweetheart, the backyard dining area at Canneti Restaurant Italiana is charming.

Wild boar and white beans is a hearty meal at Conneti Restaurant Italiana.

Where to stay on Day 2 in Sonoma County: We nestled in for the night at The Farmhouse Inn in Forestville. That neighborly feeling we got at dinner extended to our welcoming at the Inn: if any essentials were needed, including slivers of handmade artisanal soap (which should be on anyone’s essential’s list,) or s’mores makings, we were welcome to help ourselves at the guest house where we checked in. A friendly Porter showed us to our room, past the inviting swimming pool, the table under the arbor where guests are invited for free wine sampling every afternoon, and the spa. The property is a mix of the old family home (lovingly preserved and used as the top-notch restaurant), modern farm buildings and charming areas to lounge and sip wine at every turn, including on the comfortable swinging bench by the chicken coop.

A stunning and comfortable room in The Farmhouse Inn.

Join other guests every afternoon at this lovely outdoor table at The Farmhouse Inn, for a casual wine tasting.

A power bowl, super-nutritious breakast with grains, greens, kimchi, avocado and eggs is an option for breakfast at the Farmhouse Inn’s restaurant.

Day 3: Sebastapol
After a perfect night’s sleep and a very filling breakfast in the Farmhouse Inn restaurant, (notice the murals around the room that tell stories about the family), we reluctantly checked out, sad to leave our comfy in our quiet oasis in the forest with its spa-like shower and chic farmhouse décor.

Today would be our day to sample Sonoma’s wines – so off we drove along more beautiful, curving roads with long stretches through archways of trees that opened up to expansive views of verdant vineyards. Some hadn’t yet had their vines trimmed to prevent them from reaching across the row to each other – fluffy with tendrils reaching this way and that.

Down one especially curvy road that steadily rose higher, we found the manicured and magnificent Jordan Vineyard & Winery where we would join a small group for a unique wine tasting. After an introductory glass of white wine, in the shade of the impressive Jordan Winery Chateau, we walked up the hill (tip – wear walking shoes and a sun hat!) into the shade of big trees, overlooking the winery’s newest section of vines. It was like an ideal day in the Tuscan countryside, especially as our guides brought out boards of charcuterie from Sonoma’s own Journeyman Meat Co. , and poured different wines to sample. Which is better? The wine and food pairings or the view and company to share it with? The answer – all of it!

Jordan Winery’s buildings are dramatic and lush.

On a hillside, under shade trees, overlooking vineyards, you can enjoy a wine and food tasting at Jordan Vineyard & Winery.

In our little dream world of Jordan’s Tuscan paradise, we left for…lunch! Several people had told us we had to check out Willi’s Wine Bar. The original, and beloved, lSonoma County location had burned down in the 2017 wildfires. Newly opened this past Spring, we were glad to help support the locals’ favorite. We were even more glad once we got our food, small plates with International inspiration. Every dish was amazing from scallop dumplings to curried crab tacos to the Moroccan style lamb chops served with preserved lemon couscous.

Moroccan Style Lamb Chops at Willi’s Wine Bar.

All day, when people asked us where we were having dinner that night, and we told them “Lowell’s,” they all had the same reaction: “Oh, you’re going to love it there!” And we did. Tables are close together so it’s easy to see your potential menu options as they are placed on the tables of your fellow diners. With a definite bent toward healthy, clean eating, options included Salmon, a Lamb Tagine, and Macrobowl. But seeing pizzas being hand-tossed and placed into the giant pizza oven called to us too. We split one, along with a large salad.

The Pizza Bianco at Lowell’s Restaurant has potato, pine nuts, squash blossoms, chili salsa, fontina cheese and arugula.

Where to stay on Day 3 in Sonoma County:

Home base for the next two nights was homey indeed at the Sonoma Orchid Inn which we’d passed several times on our comings and goings along the Russian River (everything is close by and you start to feel like a local pretty quickly). The bed and breakfast consists of a row of connected cottages and rooms in the main farmhouse which has a large living area with lots of seating, books, magazines, movies, and games as well as the dining room guests share in the mornings. Our room was large with a seating area in front of the TV, wood burning stove, window seat to curl up in with any of the books on the bookshelf, and the bathroom. It was our own little cozy world until breakfast when guests quickly got to know each other, comparing notes on where they were from, what brought them to Sonoma and where they were heading for the day. Conversation came easily over a delicious breakfast served by our friendly innkeepers, Dana and Brian. They told us it was common for guests to gather in the evenings, amidst the billowing hydrangeas to sip wine and talk about the day’s adventures. Don’t be surprised if the Inn’s chickens come moseying around the grounds.

Welcome to the Sonoma Orchid Inn!

Join other guests in the evenings and share wine and stories of the day at Sonoma Orchid Inn.

Day 4: Healdsburg

We’d noticed the name Costeaux On the Go, adjacent to the airport and, being the Francophiles that we are, were happy to find the popular, full-service café, Costeaux French Bakery, in Healdsburg. Breakfast choices included French toast, quiche, and omelettes, while lunch brought a Smoked Duck Sandwich and Croque Madame. Early risers, we arrived about 8:30 am, and were glad we did. By 9-ish, there was a line out the door, both to be seated at tables and to grab pastries to-go, including the puffiest croissants we’ve ever seen.

Costeaux is housed in an historic building.

Eggs Benedict at Costeaux French Bakery.

After meandering the neighborhood, stopping into shops (including Journeyman Meat Co. which had provided the charcuterie the day before at Jordan Vineyard & Winery), and buying some fruit at the farmers market, we headed off for a unique lunch. Yes, MORE FOOD!

At Lynmar Estate, we enjoyed “The Lynmar Experience,” a three-course farm-to-table luncheon with wine pairings that also includes a tour through the chef’s enviable garden, into the building where seeds are gathered, catalogued and kept for the next year, and to see the vineyards. Our guide told us she used to work in a restaurant but felt the need to connect with nature more. Working here enabled her to be outside almost all day which she said was so much more fulfilling. Spending time there, we certainly agree. Lunch was outside on a covered porch, shared with, again, total strangers. But a quick go-around the table to introduce ourselves, and where we’re from, got conversation flowing that only stopped when our hostess explained the next course and its wine pairing. At the end of lunch, we muffled “mmmms” over dessert to pay attention to Chef David Frakes, who told us how great it is to work with the gardening staff who grow exactly the ingredients he’ll need for these lunches, and how he responds to the seasons and works with local vendors. We had observed Chef in the garden before our tour as he picked herbs for our meal a half an hour later!

Being reminded that life opens up in Sonoma, the views at Lynmar Estate are beautiful.

During the Lynmar Experience at Lynmar Estate, we enjoyed a delicious lunch that included this Spring Vegetable Risotto in Crisp Feuille de Brick – filled with chevre, preserved orange,e charred carrot vinaigrette with petit salad and chervil-tarragon oil.

Onto another winery – this is Sonoma wine country after all. But this experience wasn’t just about the wine. We had the very fortunate opportunity to stroll the gardens with Tucker Taylor, Master Culinary Gardner at Kendall-Jackson Wine Estate and Gardens. In addition to be a top notch winery with popular wine tastings, including food & wine pairings, there’s more to Kendall-Jackson. They want it to be a place to linger, not just come for a tasting and go. So there are garden-side bocce courts and lush gardens to stroll. Go on a tour and see the expansive, well-organized, well-conceived masterwork of Taylor and his staff. The envy of any gardener (including, certainly, us), see vegetables and herbs being grown, not only for use at Kendall-Jackson, but also for area restaurants. It’s a cooperative relationship between Taylor and the restaurants in that he experiments and grows things that the restaurants love (creating demand) but also the restaurants ask him to grow specific things for them. If you’re fortunate enough to encounter Taylor while you’re strolling the garden, bask in his peaceful demeanor and take in the calming spirit of the place.

Visit Kendall-Jackson Winery in Sonoma County to stroll the gardens, play some bocce ball, and enjoy wine and food pairings.

Master Culinary Gardner Tucker Taylor at Kendall-Jackson Winery. Photo by Rudy Meyers.

We slept in a little the next morning before heading back to the airport since it wasn’t the ordeal it is at other airports. Within 15 minutes we had pulled up in our rental car, walked a few steps to the terminal, completed the car-return process, cleared security and were ready to walk out to our plane. Soaking up every last moment of our Sonoma escape, we left feeling refreshed and enriched after four lovely days.

For more information about Sonoma County, visit their website for great tips to plan your trip.

— Story and photos, except where noted, by Courtney Drake-McDonough, publisher and managing editor, RealFoodTraveler.com 

Hungry for more? Plan to attend during one of Sonoma’s quintessential festivals throughout the year like the Whale and Jazz Fest! Listen to our podcast about the Gravenstein Apple Fair that happens each August. See what’s new in Sonoma in this article. Read some of our other Editor’s Pick desinations: Blowing Rock, North Carolina, Winston-Salem, and St. Augustine, Florida.

Pin it to Pinterest so you don’t forget it by tapping on the image, below! 

Note: Travel writers may receive discounted or free opportunities to travel in order to facilitate being able to write about the true experience for the reader. However, opinions are unbiased and are an honest and true account of our experiences.