Author Sherry Spitsnaugle cruised the Rhine River in Germany and discovered not only exquisite scenery but also fascinating insights into the life of the beloved composer Ludwig van Beethoven. 

Save this article about visiting Germany along the Rhine to help you plan your trip. Photos by Sherry Spitsnaugle. Graphic by RealFoodTraveler.com.

Cruising the Rhine and Savoring Beer, Beethoven, Bonn

Our ship, the chartered Scylla Inspire, glided along the Rhine River so close to the bank I could hear people chatting in German as they strolled the pathway, a stone’s throw from my cabin window. Church bells tolled and kids waved from shore as our ship slowly drifted by. Bicyclists whizzed along the path beside us, traveling faster than our vessel.

The Inspire as she cruises down the Rhine River, Germany, passing villages along the way. Photo by Sherry Spitsnaugle.

River Cruising

The last time I cruised, I traveled with 3,000 other passengers on a grand ocean liner, with casinos, spas, and shops. With 71 cabins and a capacity for 140 passengers, our river cruise ship was much more intimate than those built to navigate the ocean.

Ocean and river cruises are distinctly different. Like the classic debate over thin or thick pizza crust, many people prefer one over the other. I love both, in the case of both pizza crust and cruises. What struck me most about the river cruise compared to an ocean cruise was the proximity to land. I felt as if I could swim—and in some cases leap—from ship to shore if necessary.

A fortress on the riverbank as the Inspire cruises down the Rhine River, Germany. Photo by Sherry Spitsnaugle.

Hungry for more? Read Sherry’s Tips for Cruise Ship Specialty Dining.

Savoring Beer and Scenery Along the Rhine

I quickly discovered that the ship’s top deck was the place to soak up sun and suds. It felt like the place where the cool kids hung out as the ship passed charming villages, fortresses, castles, and monasteries. Granted, we saw the occasional industrial area, but it was all part of the landscape.

Catching a fleeting glimpse of people and villages whose names I did not know mesmerized.

German beer served on the deck of the Scylla Inspire on Rhine River cruise. Photo by Sherry Spitsnaugle.

Cruise Cuisine, Including Savory Sauce Named “Onion Gravy”

Fare onboard ranged from traditional German dishes such as schnitzel and goulash to broiled salmon fillet or free-range chicken breast and vegetarian selections.

A typical breakfast and lunch on Rhine River cruise includes meat selections. Photo by Sherry Spitsnaugle.

One standout the chef created was onion gravy. As a Kansas girl who grew up on comfort food, this was my favorite.

To make the sauce, caramelized onions are cooked until golden brown and sweet, intensifying their flavor. With herbs and seasonings, the mouthwatering gravy tasted both savory and sweet. But I couldn’t help but think the description onion gravy felt too mundane for such a luscious creation. Perhaps Savory Onion Reduction or Herbed Onion Sauce would be more fitting?

And while deliciously rich and flavorful, I’m sorry to report, dear reader, that the brown sauce lacked photogenic appeal. But, trust me, the smooth, savory, and slightly sweet creation tasted extraordinary.

Hungry for more? Here’s the recipe for German Onion Gravy from the ship’s executive chef.

Bonn, the City of Beethoven

Exploring a new city and experiencing its vibe even for a day, is a popular part of cruising. For a music lover like me, visiting Bonn was the highlight because of our visit to the house where Beethoven grew up.

Even though many people associate Ludwig van Beethoven with Vienna, the composer was born in Bonn, where he spent his childhood and youth. At Beethoven House, we saw the rooms where Ludwig grew up, the violin he played, and his sheet music and journals.

Larger than life Beethoven sculpture at gift shop in Bonn. Photo by Sherry Spitsnaugle.

Ludwig and Me

Learning more about this genius composer was endearing and fascinating. As a young girl and even into my teens, I studied piano and remember standing before an audience at competitions, announcing, “I shall now play for you…” Then, I would state the name of a piece by Beethoven or Mozart.

Our guide shared that Beethoven was a big coffee drinker who loved spending time in coffee houses. As a devoted coffee enthusiast myself, I rise early and walk 30 minutes to my favorite coffee hangout for an Americano every morning, whether the sun is shining or flakes are falling. I check social media, read email messages, and write. I liked to imagine the young composer savoring a rich brew and finding inspiration for his next masterpiece. Hearing the details of Beethoven’s life made this historical figure more human and real.

Piano at Beethoven House, where Ludwig spent his childhood and youth. Photo by Sherry Spitsnaugle.

I also learned that Beethoven’s favorite food was pasta with tomato sauce—another charming similarity between this brilliant composer and me!

The Story Behind Beethoven’s “Für Elise”

Beethoven’s Bagatelle No. 25 in A minor, most often referred to as “Für Elise,” translates to “for Elise” in German. The melody is unquestionably one of Ludwig van Beethoven’s most noted works and one of my favorites. But I had never considered there might be a juicy story behind the famous piece — until I came to Bonn and Beethoven House.

The story goes that when Ludwig was 16 or 17 years old, he and a buddy were dining and celebrating at an inn where an engagement party was taking place. Young Ludwig “fell in love” with the bride but had to accept she was unavailable. Supposedly, Ludwig imbibed so much he was “incarcerated in the tower to sober up.” Eventually, Ludwig composed “Für Elise,” which wasn’t published until forty years after his death.

I came across multiple versions of this story but found our guide’s interpretation the most compelling.

Bonn – Coffee Houses, Chocolate Shops, and Cafes

Once the capital of Germany, Bonn has historical significance stretching back to Roman times. With its cobblestone streets and baroque architecture, Old Town is ideal for wandering or sitting at a café with coffee or a glass of wine. And people-watching.

Bonn offers history, culture, and people-watching. Photo by Sherry Spitsnaugle.

Coppeneur, a chocolate shop in Old Town, was an ideal place to enjoy high-quality sweets after we visited Beethoven House. With hand-crafted chocolates, pralines, and samples available at the shop, I chose to savor a latte with an artisanal truffle delicacy.

Coppeneur Chocolatier, Bonn. Photo by Sherry Spitsnaugle.

Black Forest Cake:  Luxurious and Beloved

On our final evening of the cruise, the kitchen crew outdid themselves, presenting a sumptuous filet mignon. Yet, it was the grand finale that captured my palate: Deconstructed Black Forest Cake. The classic dessert from the Black Forest region of Germany has it all: rich flavors, deliciousness, and a striking appearance.

The Black Forest Cake was a looker. With layers of rich chocolate, sweetened whipped cream, bright red sweet and tart cherries, chocolate shavings, and a drizzle of ganache, the indulgent cake looked and tasted gorgeous, and paired perfectly with a finely aged cognac. Like a party on a plate, the presentation offered a finish with flourish.

Deconstructed Black Forest paired with aged cognac. Photo by Sherry Spitsnaugle.

I reflected on the cruise, with its picture-perfect scenery, pints, and preludes, and felt a sense of euphoria. And I nearly swooned after one taste of the decadent Black Forest Cake. Or perhaps it was the cognac.

Hungry for more? Read Sherry’s Article about Sacher Torte in Vienna.

If You Go to Germany

When to book? Now. Due to its safety, efficiency, and overall ease of getting around, Germany ranks high when travelers choose a destination.

For the best and most up-to-date information about traveling to Germany, visit Germany.travel.com

While many lines offer river cruises, two choices are Scylla, which offers charter cruises, and Viking, which has a variety of itineraries with premium-class cruise ships. Viking also offers ocean and expedition cruises.

-Story and photos, except where mentioned, by Sherry Spitsnaugle

Hungry for more? Decide which kind of cruise is right for you.

Please note, as is common practice in this industry, this was a hosted visit, however, all opinions are honest and based on the author’s opinion for the purpose of informing our readers.