Writer Leslie Long shows us, one tasty meal at a time, that what she calls the “foodiest island in the Caribbean” has rebounded beautifully from Hurricane Irma. Follow along as she describes her delicious day on Anguilla.

My first trip to Anguilla some years ago was planned with a slight hesitation. Why? Because while Anguilla is known for its luxe hotels, fabulous food and perfect beaches, I thought I might miss the art galleries, boutiques and light sightseeing I usually like peppered in with a beach vacation.

Yet  once we arrived at Cap Juluca and started enjoying its many hedonistic pleasures, I breathed a blissful sigh of relief. Aside from reveling in all the hotel has to offer, we rented a car, visiting a different beach and restaurant (sometimes two) every single day. As we ventured from shack-y bars to fine dining establishments, many near perfect beaches, the last thing I missed was an art gallery.

A recent trip proved that while the 2017 hurricane was a setback, Anguilla is recovering well with new and newly renovated hotels and restaurants that not only equal what was there before, but go beyond. Anguillans have many stories to share about that fateful day and its aftermath, but they are surely moving on and doing so with determination and good humor.

Breakfast and a beautiful beach at Hank’s on Schoal Bay.

Knowing the day’s fare would be on the richer side, we started at Hank’s, an open air restaurant on the sublime Schoal Bay. Being the first ones in, my friends and I chose an outdoor table just as Hank himself was raising the sunny yellow beach umbrellas above the chaise lounges where diners are welcome to spend the day at no extra charge.

I had an egg and cheese sandwich on a fresh bun, some of us had omelets, and sliced island fruits came with all of our orders. Once the affable Hank readied the beach, he took a seat at our table, telling us about the island specialties they serve later in the day which sounded even better than our breakfast. We vowed to return for the goat curry!

A perfect lunch at the newly minted Julians.

We’d heard whisperings on the island that Quintessence, an exclusive Relais & Chateau hotel, had recently opened, offering guests the experience of staying in an elegant Caribbean mansion. We’d heard even more about Julians, their tropical French bistro which we eventually found, despite our somewhat confused GPS. Soon we were standing, necks craning, in Quintessence’s dreamy, art-filled lobby which felt more like the lush living room of a home with fascinating inhabitants.

Steps away, Julians awaited. Chef Dominique Thevenet more than looked the part as he warmly greeted us in his crisp red jacket and striped black apron. The perfect patio table was set surrounded by towering flora and fauna. Soon we were enjoying cold white wine and perusing the amazingly appealing menu.

I settled on the lobster Caesar salad and reveled in every bite. Other friends chose grouper tacos and coconut curried chicken. Everything was perfectly prepared, elegantly presented and the view of the pool and the beach peeking through the foliage around our table could not have been more alluring.

The Sunshine Shack is back on Rendezvous Bay.

It was hard to believe that this happy, scrappy little graffiti covered beach bar, also known as Garvey’s, was nonexistent right after the storm when it was just about gone. But The Sunshine Shack is back after being rebuilt and it’s doing a brisk business, as always. Known for its signature “we were here” graffiti (which we added to thanks to the markers provided by the establishment), there’s no question where it got its name.

Minutes after we’d settled into our chaises, the pineapple margaritas and frozen lime daiquiris we ordered appeared (and appeared again when we ordered another round). For a few relaxing hours, we swam in the gem-blue seas of Rendezvous Bay. The heavenly beach was ours for the taking, this time with a big float where we could bask between dips. Anguilla aficionados are surely relieved that The Sunshine Shack is once again serving up drinks, food, friendliness and fun, along with music on Sundays.

Straight out of Somerset Maugham, Veya for dinner.

Again, our GPS got a little confused but we soon found the little road leading to the somewhat secluded Veya, a restaurant so evocative and romantic, we sighed as we stepped inside. Wide plank floors and gently flowing curtains wafted in and out around our corner table on the large deep porch that encircles the restaurant. Elevated above the ground with a twinkling view of the nearby shadowed hills, the night sounds created an intoxicating tropical backdrop.

Our meal began with a basket of buttery Johnny cakes, fresh banana bread and spicy pumpkin bread which lasted mere minutes. I couldn’t resist the Indian-spiced yellow pea soup, flavored with coconut milk and lime, and it more than lived up to its appealing description. Grilled crayfish (an Anguilla specialty reminiscent of small, clawless lobsters) had a rich mustard sauce that added some tanginess to their tenderness.

One lucky friend chose the grilled jerk tuna with a rum coffee glaze, caramelized pineapple and fried plantains. While I loved my crayfish, I had some order-envy gazing at that extremely island-y dish, Veya has one of those menus filled with local specialties and combinations that surprise and delight, straight through to dessert of warm chocolate cake with chili and roasted banana ice cream. Oh, to be back on that porch!

And right before bed, just one more.

Our hotel, The Reef by CuisinArt had a bright white lobby bar open to the sea that felt like a party, even during the day, As we stepped inside after dinner, satiated and happy, we noticed a crowd at the bar and couldn’t resist. After a quick Reeftini (vodka, cucumber, ginger and lemon juice), there was nothing like knowing our big, comfortable beds were just a short walk away. — Story and photos by Leslie Long.

To learn more about Anguilla, visit their website, here.

Hungry for more? Read about Leslie’s rum dinner experience on another island, how she got back to her Swedish roots in Wisconsin, and a great place for a beer in Alabama.