Dumplings, those perfect encased little bundles of deliciousness. Travel writer Debi Lander discovered and devoured some at an authentic source of divine Chinese dumplings. 

Dumplings can be in a variety of colors.

If you take a tour of China that includes Xi’an, a city in Central China’s Shaanxi Province, you are in for a treat. The tomb of the First Emperor lies nearby. In 1974, the world learned that he’s not alone, with the unearthing of the now-famous Terracotta Army. About 8,000 strong by some estimates, no two of the life-size pottery sculptures of the First Emperor’s army look alike. The site’s mind-boggling history, hidden mysteries, and ongoing archeological study evoke endless and irresistible fascination.

An almost equally good reason to visit Xi’an is to taste the divine Chinese dumplings at De Fa Chang Restaurant. The eatery opened in 1939, back when General Chiang Kai-shek ruled China. The restaurant hasn’t just earned staying power – it’s the number one dumpling house in the country. The walls feature photos of the famous, from Anna Chennault to the Clintons, who have dined in one of the upstairs private banquet rooms.

The dumpling chef with a duck dumpling.

My group proceeded to one of many upstairs rooms, nothing special atmospherically, but a setting suited to what became a marathon demonstration and feast featuring the versatile Chinese dumpling. We were treated to De Fa Chang’s renowned Chinese Dumpling Banquet – maybe 18 courses, but impossible to keep count. Other options include “Banquets” with enticing tags like Flowers, Dragon, Phoenix, Palace, and the most eloquent moniker – Eighth Precious.

Beautiful black and white dumplings.

De Fa Chang Chinese dumplings evolved from the Beijing style, and feature a combination of thin-skinned dough and fillings. The banquet’s offerings include ancient and modern techniques. According to waiters, “ It is said one dumpling one shape, hundreds of dumplings hundreds of tastes.”

A “dumpling chef,” for lack of the correct term, showed us how to shape and fill a few varieties. Her deft hands made the process look simple; ours proved quite a bit more plodding. In pinching some dough around meat filling, I found my dumpling’s seam reluctant to stay closed.

Special tools are used to pinch the seams together when making dumplings.

Dumpling cooking methods vary: steamed, baked, boiled, roasted, pan-fried, sautéed and bobbing in soup. Shapes range from half moons and tulip, to ridge-backed stegosaurs to dainty swans and ducks, before moving on to even more whimsical tiny stuffed drawstring purses.

The writer’s favorite, duck dumplings!

Colors? Creamy, yellow, orange, browns, blacks, rainbow and most shades in between. Fillings? Choices range from salty, sweet, sour, savory, spicy, mild and a bit crunchy. We lost track – – each proved too scrumptious to keep the arithmetic straight.

Waiters carry the Chinese dumplings in baskets and set them onto the table in a rapid, seemingly endless stream. These mouth-watering morsels taste best when hot – – one excuse for gobbling them down quickly. I particularly remember spicy pork, seafood, duck, pumpkin, mushroom, onion, chicken, ham, and vegetables as notable filling choices. (It is also impossible to take notes!)

Spicy pork-filled dumplings.

The meal concluded with sweets – yes, Chinese dumplings filled with red bean paste and walnuts, plus tea. Duck dumplings, shaped like tiny ducks and offering a slightly gamey flavor were my favorite.

Dessert, yes, dessert dumplings.

In all, the folders, fillers, and chefs at De Fa Chang can prepare more than 200 different varieties. We blimped out at perhaps 19 or 20.

Where to find these authentic Chinese Dumplings

The restaurant can be a bit tricky to find; walk along the front of the building facing Xi Dajie, past the shops selling trinkets and antiques to the end of the row. Coming from the Xi’an Bell and Drum Towers’ square you’ll see a sign. Like so many of America’s great Chinese restaurant, De Fa Chang won’t wow you from the outside. Save your gasps for the excellent authentic Chinese dumplings – the best I have ever eaten.  — Article and photos by Debi Lander.

To learn more about Shaanxi, visit Shaanxi Provincial Tourism Administration, China, here.

To learn more about travel to China, the regions, customs and cuisines, visit this site.   

Hungry for more? Read Debi’s article about the Surry Sonker Trail.