A slow-paced river cruise is a luxurious and relaxing experience and opportunity to see amazing sites. Combine that opportunity with the history of major world events and it becomes more than just a vacation. Writer Meryl Pearlstein shares her journey on a Scenic Luxury Cruises & Tours itinerary that commemorates D-Day. 

Save this article about taking a Scenic Luxury Cruises & Tours to Pinterest to help you plan to go. Photos by Meryl Pearlstein. Graphic by RealFoodTraveler.com.

Sailing the Seine aboard Scenic Luxury Cruises & Tours

Eighty years have passed since General Dwight D. Eisenhower gave the order that changed the course of world history. On June 6, 1944, Operation Overlord began, a day forever known as D-Day, marking the beginning of the end of World War II in Europe. That day, the largest amphibious invasion in military history brought together Allied land, air, and sea forces to establish a beachhead on the Normandy coast. This risky operation ultimately led to the demise of Nazi German occupation in France and the liberation of Western Europe from control by Axis powers.

To commemorate this milestone, I embarked on an educational and cultural visit to the American landing sites in Normandy, including Omaha and Utah beaches and the surrounding towns, as part of an 11-night “Normandy & Gems of the Seine” cruise. Organized by Scenic Luxury Tours & Cruises on the Scenic Gem, the journey began and ended in Paris with two nights spent exploring the City of Light. The itinerary meandered up and down the Seine River, stopping at several villages in Normandy, a province in France rich in cultural and historical significance.

Balancing the region’s somber history, Scenic’s programming included art, music and gastronomy excursions along with onboard activities that catered to the varied interests of the guests.

The Scenic Space-Ship, the Gem

A river cruise epitomizes the luxuries of slow travel, offering a fitting way to reflect on the D-Day remembrances. Scenic’s Space-Ship, as it’s called, is sleek and intimate, accommodating a maximum of 128  passengers with 45 crew members – just the right size for me. Scenic Gem became my home, encouraging relaxation and contemplation during the thought-provoking stops along the journey.

The Scenic Gem, the Scenic Luxury Cruises & Tours’ “Space-Ship.”

Everything on the cruise is included from meals and beverages to excursions, gratuities and accommodations. Wi-Fi is also available at no extra charge.

Sleeping quarters are particularly spacious and most cabins come with a balcony. Scenic’s signature balcony design includes glass walls that descend halfway, allowing open-air seating with river views. Your personal butler can transform the balcony into a private dining area or cocktail lounge — having breakfast served in your cabin is one of those “perfect moments” as you pass villages and wave to houseboat dwellers while feasting on poached eggs, croissants and cappuccino.

The cabins are well laid out, appointed with reading lights, generous closet space and outlets for both international and US plugs. Bottles of sparkling and flat water are replenished daily as is the minibar, customizable with your favorite snacks and beverages. A unique touch is Scenic’s “mood” shower, a creative fixture with the option of changing the color of the water, perhaps a nod to the light-inspired art featured on the cruise.

Scenic Luxury Cruises & Tours Onboard Features and Scenic Enrichment

The Sun Deck and cozy lounge areas foster mingling with fellow travelers. Coffee, cocktails and snacks are available throughout the day, and in the evening the bar becomes the venue for the Hotel Manager’s daily port talk as well as post-dinner entertainment.

Between port stops, there’s plenty to do onboard. Massages and facials are available in the wellness room on the lower deck. If you prefer staying active and toned, there’s a small gym and a salt therapy room. Ebikes are available for both guided tours and individual exploration. Shoppers can browse a selection of jewelry and souvenirs in the ship’s lobby.

After excursions, participatory events often enhanced the day’s experiences. While I’m no budding artist, I enjoyed watercolor painting under the guidance of a skilled artist. The foodie in me appreciated the French cheese and Calvados tasting that highlighted regional specialties.

The Calvados and French cheese tasting event onboard.

A signature element of all Scenic cruises is an exclusive Scenic Enrich event. On this cruise, we dressed in our finest attire for a private soirée at the Château de la Roche-Guyon where a wine reception in the 12th-century château was followed by a concert of Broadway and classical music.

Dining à la Scenic

All meals are taken in the Crystal Dining room. Breakfast and lunch are presented buffet-style along with served items from a daily menu. Food is freshly prepared in the ship’s efficient kitchen – you’re invited to tour if you’d like – and there are many selections including homemade breads and ice cream as well as a daily chef station for made-to-order eggs, pasta and regionally inspired dishes.

The egg station for made-to-order eggs and omelets, is available as well as the buffet at breakfast.

Dinner is a more dressed-up affair, but not formal. A changing menu captures local influences as well. Wine plays a central role with two sommelier-recommended vintages complementing the night’s specials. Dietary needs are carefully considered with a range of vegetarian, gluten-free and dairy-free selections, the latter one especially important for me.

Two special dinners are part of Scenic’s signature dining experience. Guests on the upper Diamond Deck are treated to a seven-course Table La Rive wine pairing dinner, a mix of local and international fine dining. All guests are invited to enjoy a five-course fine dining experience at L’Amour Restaurant, presented by the chef and sommelier.

Scenic’s Excursions: Normandy and D-Day

Excursions in Normandy put visitors at the heart of history, standing in the very places where brave soldiers made their mark. Seeing these sites in person is far more poignant than watching movies like Saving Private Ryan or The Longest Day. Emotions ran high for me and the torrential rain that accompanied my visit felt very fitting. At Utah Beach and Omaha Beach in the American Sector, I stood silently on the sand. Looking out to the ocean, I tried to imagine the terror the soldiers must have felt as they landed on the beaches that fateful June day.

Monuments on both beaches like the shiny “Les Braves” with its “wings” of hope, rise and freedom, and fraternity serve as solemn reminders of the sacrifices made for freedom. The Visitor Center and museums, including the Utah Beach museum housed in a former German bunker, take you deeper into the events surrounding D-Day with videos and exhibits showing General Eisenhower’s decision to launch the operation. His fatalistic words on June 5, “OK, let’s go,” still echo in my mind.

Monuments Les Braves in the sand at Normandy.

A walk among the 9,388 white gravestones in the Normandy American Cemetery at Colleville-sur-Mer is overwhelming. Engraved with only a cross or a Star of David, a name and a home state, these marble markers give no indication of the ages of the deceased. The ten grave sections on the 170-acre site powerfully convey the magnitude of the sacrifices made here as well as by the British and Canadians on nearby Gold, Sword and Juno beaches. The Wall of the Missing lists the names of 1,557 Americans whose bodies were never recovered. Together with a chapel and a memorial with American flags flanking the grounds, the vast field of white stones evokes both reverence and sorrow.

The Normandy American Cemetery.

The gratitude of the French people is evident to this day. American flags fly from homes, a tank is displayed by the roadside, and a paratrooper statue dangles from the church at Sainte-Mère-Église, commemorating the men who parachuted into the area. Inside the chapel, a moment of peace and reflection contrasts starkly with the violence that had unfolded nearly a century ago.

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Non-War History and Art

Before D-Day, Normandy held significance dating back to Viking times. To explore this legacy in Rouen, the capital of Normandy, Scenic schedules a historical tour led by a guide dressed as Rollo, the Viking warlord who became the first ruler of Normandy. On this tour, you’ll walk past medieval, half-timbered houses and key landmarks such as the Catholic church dedicated to Joan of Arc who was burned at the stake in Rouen in 1431 and the Gros-Horloge astronomical clock in the heart of the pedestrian district.

Gros Horloge and the pedestrian center in Rouen.

Lovers of gastronomy will want to make a reservation at La Couronne, dating from 1345 in France’s oldest auberge, and an eatery that inspired Julia Child to teach the world about French cuisine. Prepare for a leisurely meal in the lavish setting, taking in the historic décor and photos of celebrity diners that line the walls while you sample Rouen’s acclaimed pressed duck, Dover sole, and La Couronne’s signature mille-feuille pastry. The town’s crêperies also serve some of the finest savory and sweet crêpes I’ve ever had, perfect with a mid-afternoon espresso.

The Cathédrale Notre-Dame de Rouen is a must-visit for lovers of Impressionist art. From across the street, you can set up your camera or easel to capture the ever-changing light effects on the cathedral that so fascinated Claude Monet. In the evening, a light and music show projected on the west façade adds a modern twist to this historic site, something Monet himself would have likely appreciated. To further explore the Impressionist movement, plan a few hours at the Musée des Beaux-Arts where you’ll find a timeline of works by Eugène Boudin (who encouraged Monet to paint landscapes en plein air), Monet, Pissarro and Renoir.

Another location familiar from Monet’s painting, Étretat is a seaside resort favored by the Impressionists. Scenic’s guided tour takes you through the small village of medieval homes, inns and taverns to Étretat’s shingle beach with its famous chalk cliffs and arches. It’s also another chance to enjoy Normandy’s savory and sweet crêpes.

A Norman sugar crêpe and glass of cider in Honfleur.

From the port of Vernon, we visited one of France’s most picturesque settings, Monet’s home in Giverny. Whether arriving on foot or by bicycle, you’re immersed in the beauty of the colorful gardens with their lily ponds, Japanese bridges and wildflowers, all surrounding Monet’s pink stucco house. If you’ve been to the Musée de l’Orangerie in Paris, you’ll recognize the setting for Monet’s massive lily pond paintings.

The Water Lily Pond and Japanese Bridge at Giverny.

In contrast, a visit to Auvers sur Oise reveals the troubled world of Vincent van Gogh. From the port of Conflans-Saint-Honorine, a walking tour brought us to Auberge Ravoux where you can climb a steep staircase to the tiny, minimalist room where the artist spent his last days. The nearby cathedral was the subject of many of Van Gogh’s post-Impressionist paintings. You can also visit the cemetery where Van Gogh is buried alongside his brother Theo, a short uphill walk from the inn.

The cathedral Van Gogh painted many times.

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Ports to Explore with Scenic Luxury Tours and Cruises

For more Norman history, a guide dressed as Richard the Lionheart leads a tour to Château Gaillard in Les Andelys. Although little remains of the medieval fortress Richard built to protect the city, the views from above are breathtaking and the guide’s stories are entertaining. A visit to nearby Lyons-la-Fôret showcases Normandy’s distinctive half-timbered architecture in a setting that inspired Impressionist composer Maurice Ravel. The day trip culminates in a visit to Le Pressoir D’Or orchard and cidery with tastings of dry, sweet and non-alcoholic beverages.

A favorite stop among both locals and visitors is Honfleur, a pretty town on the Seine estuary. Blessed with soft lighting that captivated artists like Monet, Gustave Courbet and Boudin and the colorful Vieux Bassin (harbor), Honfleur buzzes with outdoor cafés and bars. Here you can sample Norman oysters and crêpes and enjoy a taste of Calvados, the region’s famous apple brandy — shops are happy to offer a swig. For music lovers, Maisons Satie is a self-guided foray into the life and sounds of Honfleur’s unconventional composer Erik Satie. A highlight is a merry-go-round in the upstairs gallery, powered by guest foot pedals and set to the music of Satie’s Gymnopédies. I was fortunate to hear a rehearsal on the grand organ in the Église Sainte-Catherine, a beautiful wooden church from the fifteenth century. Strains of Bach, Mozart and Pachelbel followed me as I wandered the cobblestone streets filled with boutiques, bakeries and half-timbered homes.

Honfleur Harbour seen while on a Scenic cruise.

Heading back towards Paris, the Scenic Gem made one more stop in Caudebac-en-Caux, a small town that highlights the historical importance of the Seine. A compact museum aboard a permanently docked boat combines river exhibits with an intimate church, while a walk along the shore takes you past the many houseboats moored there. Perched on a hill, the remains of the 12th-century House of Templars have been converted into a museum about medieval life.

Scenic concludes the cruise at a dock near Paris. You may choose to take the metro into the city center to enjoy the sparkling Eiffel Tower from a closer vantage point or simply kick back on the top deck and take in the view with your new friends and a glass of Champagne.

As I disembarked from the Scenic Gem, I had much to reflect on. The profound experience of standing on the D-Day beaches, combined with the beauty of Monet’s gardens and the charm of the Norman villages, left me both exhilarated and contemplative. This journey was a celebration of the resilience of the human spirit, seen through the lens of history, art and the simple pleasures of life on the river.

An Additional Note 

If you visit this year, 80th anniversary commemorations continue into November 2024 with “Bunkers Brought Back to Life,” a series of outdoor projections and presentations at Douvres-la-Délivrande, the site of a former World War II German radar station, now home to a radar museum.

For more information on Scenic Luxury Tours and Cruises’ river cruises, visit their website, here.

-Story and photos by Meryl Pearlstein

Please note: As is common practice in our industry, Meryl was hosted for the cruise to help facilitate being able to write about the experience. However, that does not sway how we inform our readers about the opportunities that await them.