Denver, Colorado is full of charming neighborhoods, each with its own personality. Even within the downtown area, there are several that combine the historic with the contemporary, somehow in tandem. Here’s a look at one of those neighborhoods, LoDo, short for Lower Downtown, an area long on things to do. To call attention to this thriving area, Real Food Traveler is happy to participate in the #LoDoLove campaign to introduce people to the area.

Save this article about visiting LoDo in Denver to Pinterest to help you plan your trip. Photos by Jimmy McDonough. Graphic by RealFoodTraveler.com.

#LoDoLove: Getting to know the LoDo neighborhood in Denver

For a first visit to my hometown, I can think of no better place to start than LoDo to get to know Denver. When you visit, post your photos to social media and use #LoDoLove to let us know what you loved most!

When the urban renewal craze hit Denver, Colorado, in the 1960’s and 70’s, much of the historic fabric of Denver was bulldozed in the name of progress. Miraculously, the 1800’s Gold Rush era district of sturdy red brick warehouses in the lower downtown area was spared. The area now known as “LoDo” was dingy with dilapidated viaducts and crumbling buildings, unloved and forgotten.

Then recent transplant entrepreneurs Dana Crawford (developer, community leader, preservationist) and John Hickenlooper (brewer, future Mayor and Senator) imagined a better future for lower downtown. They aspired to honor Denver’s original commercial district by investing in the area to preserve buildings and create new businesses.

Thanks to their leadership and vision, today’s LoDo is a thriving urbane neighborhood blending Old West history, architecture, eateries, shops, and fun experiences. Come along with me to get to know what I love about LoDo!

LoDo’s Crown Jewel: Union Station

Let’s start at the heart of LoDo, and arguably the entire region, Denver Union Station. As a landlocked city, the railroads played an integral role to the existence and vitality of the city. This grand Beaux Arts gem welcomed troops home from wars and decades of travelers. When air travel took over, travel by rail declined and Union Station lay fallow for decades.

Now the trains from Denver’s international airport (locally called DIA; official airport code DEN) arrive and depart every 15-30 minutes each day, and after millions of dollars were poured into a recent renovation, Union Station gleams inside and out. Linger in the soaring light-filled Great Hall to people-watch and admire the architectural details. Visit the shops, choose from the various restaurants (Ultreia is one of my faves for tapas), or grab a drink from the Terminal Bar and meet some locals or fellow travelers. Outside, the plaza surrounding the station hosts markets, special events, sidewalk cafes, and quieter shaded spots to relax.

A functioning train/bus/lightrail hub, Denver Union Station recently underwent a renovation to its Great Hall which includes the upper level Terminal Bar.

LoDo Strolling and Fun

From Denver Union Station, head out in any direction to explore walkable LoDo and enjoy the diverse architecture. Sleek modern next to ornate 19th century buildings, a juxtaposition of new and historic. Look up and around to catch glimpses of faded advertising messages painted on the brick walls during the rough and tumble frontier town era, when horses and cattle roamed the dirt streets along with miners and cowboys. Learn as you walk with the Denver Architecture Foundation’s audio tour: Downtown Denver: A Game of City and Empire Builders.

Make your way to Larimer Square, on LoDo’s western edge, one of Denver’s oldest remaining blocks of original structures and the birthplace of the urban historic preservation movement initiated by (yes, you guessed it) Dana Crawford. Now a pedestrian-only block of upscale boutiques, bars, eateries, mosey about and look up to see the ornate cornices built by the early settlers of an isolated, dusty town at the edge of the Great Plains, aspiring to civic respectability. Gleaming glass towers soaring above the humble brick block proves they succeeded beyond their wildest dreams!

For playful fun, LobDenver provides an indoor playground for all ages to play a hybrid between golf and bocce; learn more at our sister website. Another all-ages fun spot, Holey Moley Golf Club, offers 27 holes of indoor golf in the old home of the trolley cars that once stitched Denver together before cars took over. For laughs, head to the beloved, woman-owned and operated Comedy Works subterranean comedy club in Larimer Square. Lots more fun can be had at McGregor Square and The Dairy Block – read on to learn more about them!

Here I am playing at LobDenver.

Hotels to #LoDoLove 

One of LoDo’s newest hotels, The Rally Hotel, is across from Coors Field, Denver’s major league baseball park. It celebrates America’s great pastime in Denver and Colorado. Part of the new entertainment complex McGregor Square, the hotel’s lobby is full of memorabilia and artful tributes to Denver’s home team, the Colorado Rockies. Nods to baseball infuse the design of almost everything, from the hotel front desk (a giant piece of baseball bat wood), to guestrooms where big leather pads, echoing baseball mitt leather, form the headboard.

The lobby of The Rally Hotel in Lodo features a lot of baseball memorabilia.

Perks to staying at The Rally include easy access to The Original for breakfast and lunch, the dramatic bar Call Me Pearl for drinks and nibbles, The Rally Store for sports garb, and the nearby shops and eateries of McGregor Square. Guests enjoy free coffee each morning and in the late afternoon, free ice cream sundaes in the lobby. Oh, and they welcome you with a complimentary glass of bubbly or locally brewed beer at check-in – cheers!

The Rally’s expansive rooftop pool area offers a bar and thrilling views of Denver’s urban landscape with the Rocky Mountains to the west, as does the sprawling fitness center one floor below. Request a room facing McGregor Square’s center court if you want to literally lounge in bed while watching games, movies (during the summer), on a massive high-res outdoor screen and observe the activity in the plaza where special events take place year round. (Christmas here is magical!)

Other notable LoDo boutique hotels include The Maven in The Dairy Block, The Oxford Hotel and The Crawford. Each offers a unique lodging experience; some are newly-built modern (The Rally, The Maven), others are in renovated historic buildings with modern conveniences (The Crawford, The Oxford).

Even the chandelier is reminiscent of baseball over Call Me Pearl, a cocktail bar within The Rally Hotel in LoDo.

LoDo shopping

LoDo abounds with unique, locally-owned shops to peruse. Perhaps the most unique, and certainly the most authentically western, is Rockmount Ranchwear. This family-owned clothing shop has been around since 1946, founded by local legend Jack Weil, original owner inventor of the “snap” button style western shirt, beloved by cowboys, Hollywood movie producers, music stars of all genres, and modern hipsters.

Meander about The Dairy Block (named after an actual dairy that once occupied the sturdy brick warehouses), to shop (and dine) in a lively labyrinth of inside and outside spaces. Inside, shop Blue Ruby Boutique for clothing, jewelry, accessories, shoes and other goodies like stickers, pins and more. Other notable Dairy Block shopping opportunities include Free Market marketplace, Switch Wood, and Sarah O. Jewelry.

Shop one (or both) locations of Blue Ruby Boutique in LoDo for fashion and other fun items.

If “shop ‘til you drop” is not your thing,, or you just need a break, visit the Dairy Block anyway to indulge in their Milk Market food hall and don’t miss my favorite spots in the funky Dairy Block alley arcade – LoDough Bakery, Blanchard Family Wines, and Deviation Distilling (for cocktails made with locally crafted spirits). The alley frequently hosts events and seasonal markets (like summertime’s After Dark Evening Bazaar).

The Alley of The Dairy Block is a place for strolling, shopping, dining and attending fun events including concerts and festivals.

LoDo Drinking and Dining

LoDo’s dining scene is an embarrassment of riches, with options from some of Denver’s finest sit down full service restaurants (like James Beard awarded Tavernetta) to casual easy-going local favorites like Machete, Rio Grande Mexican Restaurant and Wynkoop Brewing Co. (Denver’s original craft brewery founded by John Hickenlooper).

For a quick bite, mini-restaurants within Milepost Zero Food Hall in McGregor Square serves up burgers, poke/ramen bowls, tacos, BBQ and pizza, along with a bar and a pay-as-you-go tap wall. For an upscale, sit-down meal, Caldero above the food hall, occupies a grand space filled with art and striking views of the LoDo street scene – their grilled meats and southwest dishes inspired by family recipes are delicious. Fancy Italian? Try Carmine’s for casual family style dining.

Truly unique in all of Denver (indeed, the entire region) The Cruise Room is an authentic 1930’s art deco cocktail lounge with a storied history. Slip in from the lovely Oxford Hotel lobby, where the ruby-red lighting of the long and narrow space stops you in your tracks. Head to the bar for a seat to watch the bartenders’ artistry of churning out creative cocktails and classics such as the French 75 and Negroni. Succumb to the hubbub of the cozy, noisy space and chat with a stranger – locals and travelers alike mingle in the ruby glow. Together, as you chat over sips (nibbles available to order), marvel at the delightfully whimsical decorative panels depicting different ways to say “cheers” around the world that have been spared the caprices of “new is always better” decorating trends. As the name suggests, imagine you are aboard a luxury ocean liner traversing the North Atlantic, and revel in the frivolity and gaiety that is the Cruise Room. Salud! Sante! Skol!

Actually white inside, the dramatically red-lit, 1930’s Cruise Room is a must-stop in LoDo.

Denver’s favorite cuisine is (arguably) a taste of the southwest and Mexico, so try Kachina Cantina where I consistently enjoy flavorful meals in a casual atmosphere – a vivid wall mural and open kitchen provide energy and good vibes. On a recent dinner visit with a companion, sipping a mezcal-forward cocktail called Smokey Spice, we started with a refreshing appetizer, Hamachi Aguachile (Hamachi crudo, cilantro, fresno chili, lime macha aguachile sauce), along with crispy chips to dip into a trio of salsas and freshly scooped guacamole. For an entree, hearty Chicken Enchiladas (cheesy, piquant, flavorful) and Chili Braised Short Rib (fork-tender beef atop polenta prepared with pickled shallots, cilantro and roasted jalapeno). And for dessert – we shared a dense, moist Tres Leches Cake capped with a thick smear of citrus mascarpone frosting, berries, a sprig of bright green mint. Delicious and satisfying!

The interior of Kachina Cantina includes an open kitchen, vibrant mural and great food and drink.

Back at the Rally Hotel, brunch at The Original in an updated 1950’s diner atmosphere (or dine alfresco on their wrap-around patio in nicer weather). Overindulge with memorable shareable plates like Sugar Dusted Churro Bites, Breakfast Sausage Corn Dogs, and the Billionaire Bacon (Thick-Cut Pork Belly, Bourbon-Maple Glaze). Brunch entrée options include Crème de la Crème Toast, Breakfast Tacos, Mushroom Frittata, and Santa Fe Toast.

The Original, inside The Rally Hotel, has a 50’s diner vibe.

Try my humble LoDo favorite for a quick, inexpensive slice of pizza – SliceWorks. Grab a slice of Jalapeno Popper (cheese, topped with jalapeno peppers and grape jelly) – improbably delicious! Or choose from a variety of quick serve pizza slices; whole pies may also be ordered. Save room for house made cannoli or Tiramisu –some of the freshest and most delicious in the city. Oh, they have decent grab-and-go salads, too.

There is so much more to Denver’s LoDo – this is just a taste. LoDo – like nowhere else.

The nonprofit LoDo District is a good source for updates on what’s happening.

-Story and photos by Jimmy McDonough

Hungry for more? Editor’s Pick: The Broadmoor Hotel Colorado Springs

Please note: As is common practice in our industry we were hosted for many of our activities to help facilitate writing this article. However, as is always our policy, our opinions are our own, honest and true, for the informational benefit of our readers.