It might not be as grand as the Grand Canyon, but Palo Duro Canyon State Park, is one of the highlights of the things to do in Amarillo! Writer Ann N. Yungmeyer takes us there to discover all that it has to offer.

There are many nice places to sit and take in the amazing views in Palo Duro Canyon in Amarillo as writer Ann Yungmeyer did on her recent visit.

Things to Do in Palo Duro Canyon and beyond: Discover Amarillo and the “Grand Canyon of Texas.” 

Situated along historic Route 66 and Interstate 40 in the Texas Panhandle, Amarillo has long been a favorite rest stop for travelers heading across the southern U.S. From rodeo and ranching to Route 66 nostalgia, the city is touted as authentic Texas. And its whimsical logo, which spells Amarillo with cowboy boots (as double Ls), lets you know it’s a fun-loving place.

A visit to Amarillo, Texas includes seeing Route 66 memorabilia. The famous road runs right through the city.

Visitors find an eclectic cultural vibe and culinary scene – from the iconic Cadillac Ranch, a display of graffiti-painted cars nose-dived in sand, to the famous Big Texan Steak Ranch & Brewery, where your 72-oz. steak dinner is free if you can eat it in less than an hour.

Cadillac Ranch is one of many must-see sites in Amarillo, Texas.

Can you handle it? It’s good eating and big eating at the Big Texan Steak Ranch Brewery in Amarillo, Texas.

Amarillo is home to the American Quarter Horse Hall of Fame & Museum; and in nearby Canyon, the Panhandle Plains Historical Museum is a major attraction as the state’s largest history museum. But not to be missed, especially for outdoor enthusiasts, is the area’s unique natural wonder, Palo Duro Canyon – deemed the “Grand Canyon of Texas.”

On my recent visit, I was amazed to learn that Palo Duro is the second largest canyon in the U.S. Although much smaller than the Grand Canyon, this lesser known gem offers equally majestic, high-desert scenery with vivid layers of purple, orange and red along its canyon walls. Palo Duro Canyon State Park, just 25 miles southeast of Amarillo, offers Palo Duro Canyon cabins, camping, hiking, horseback riding, and adventure activities.

Things to Do in Palo Duro Canyon in Amarillo: Learn the fascinating history

Spanish explorers are believed to have named the canyon Palo Duro, meaning hard wood, for the many mesquite and juniper trees. If you take a ranger-led hike or guided horseback tour, you’ll travel along trails once used by those early explorers, as well as Native American inhabitants and bison hunters, who ran buffalo over the cliffs as a hunting technique. You’ll learn about the flora and fauna and bits of history of the canyon.

A park interpreter and guide points out vegetation along a Palo Duro Canyon State Park trail.

The moving story of the infamous Battle of Palo Duro Canyon, when the Southern Plains Indians were driven out of the canyon in 1874, was told to my group of horseback riders as we rode along the eastern rim. Phyllis Nickum, our guide and owner of the adventure company Cowgirls & Cowboys in the West, paused at an overlook to describe the event of when the U.S. Army was sent to move the Native Americans to Indian Territory and how they did so by first capturing and shooting some 1,400 horses belonging to the tribes, forcing their surrender.

Riding with the Cowgirls and Cowboys in the West, gives visitors a unique take on Palo Duro Canyon.

“We are ever mindful of the history of this land,” she says. “We honor our western heritage with deep respect for the Comanches.”

The Visitor Center at the park has exhibits on the wildlife and geology of the canyon, including the characteristic rock formations called “hoodoos,” which are balanced rocks atop a smaller base. Visitors will also find information on the establishment of the state park in the 1930s, after much of the canyon had been used for cattle grazing by a rancher named Charles Goodnight (inventor of the chuckwagon) who raised longhorn cattle. Land for the park was purchased by the state from private owners in 1933, and the Civilian Conservation Corps was sent to develop road access to the canyon floor. The CCC began building the park headquarters, visitor center, cabins and trails, and the state park opened in 1934.

Things to Do in Palo Duro Canyon: Stay and Play in the park

Palo Duro Canyon State Park offers 30 miles of trails for hiking, mountain biking and horseback riding, as well as other options for discovering the park, including taking a driving tour and interpretive programs on nature and birding.

Here are a few activities to consider; some are subject to seasonal changes:

Choose a hike from more than a dozen trails, the most popular being the 6-mile round-trip Lighthouse Trail to Lighthouse Rock, a hallmark of the park. Shorter excursions recommended for families include the Pioneer Nature Trail, a loop walk where Texas-horned lizards are often spotted, and the 2-mile round-trip Juniper Riverside, which features colorful formations called Spanish Skirts. The upper Comanche trail, rated difficult, is known for scenic views across the canyon from a viewpoint partway up the canyon wall. Park interpreters frequently warn hikers about heat danger and advise against hiking mid-day during summer months. Fall is a favorite season, weather-wise, and optimal for seeing the cottonwood trees in full color.

Take in the beautiful view of Palo Duro Canyon State Park from the Visitors Center.

Take the high road and zip across the canyon with Palo Duro Adventure Park & Zipline, located just outside the park entrance. A special tandem rig allows adults to zipline with young children, and even grandmothers enjoy the ride.

See the outdoor musical drama TEXAS, a family-friendly show that runs during summer season at the Pioneer Amphitheater in the park. The story portrays the struggles and triumphs of early settlers of the Texas Panhandle, with singing, dancing, and fireworks.

See the musical “TEXAS” performed in the amphitheater in Palo Duro Canyon State Park.

Take a guided horseback ride from Palo Duro Riding Stables located just outside the park entrance, or at Old West Stables, which offers trail rides along the canyon floor. Also outside the park, Cowgirls & Cowboys of the West offers posse-style rides through open range with exquisite canyon views along the eastern rim. The company specializes in group events, tours and chuckwagon meals.

Palo Duro Canyon camping and unique lodging choices are available in the park and along the canyon rim. Campsites include those with water and electricity, primitive drive-up sites, and equestrian or backpack camping areas. Prefer to stay in a cabin? Rent a historic Palo Duro Canyon cabin built by the CCC, with a choice of limited-service cabins on the canyon floor or on the rim.  For a more luxury experience, the cabins at Dove Rest Resort are perched along the rim, with inviting outdoor spaces for taking in the long-range views, sunrise and sunsets. The resort offers concierge service, private in-cabin chefs, tours, and other amenities. — Article and photos by Ann. N. Yungmeyer

To learn more, visit Amarillo’s visitor’s website

Hungry for more? Here’s another article by Ann about the unique craft beer scene in Hot Springs, Arkansas. Or, learn how to cook authentic Texas cuisine, with this cookbook we reviewed.

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