Through the years, writer Irvina Lew has seen restaurants come and go in Miami. A recent visit gave her the chance to visit some old favorites while checking out some new discoveries. Let her be your guide for where to eat on your next trip to Miami.
Photo courtesy Pixabay.com.
Miami is known for its fresh and local seafood, its authentic Cuban and pan-Latin dishes and restaurants that range from simple neighborhood cafés to sophisticated star chef outposts. For some decades, from my first teenage car-trip, to summer stays in my in-law’s empty apartment, to President’s Week school getaways, long-distance marriage reunions and Boat Show weeks, Miami was THE, not A, Lew family destination. In recent years, it’s where I go to hang out with Val, my childhood gal pal. We dine well at old favorites and noteworthy discoveries, including these that I enjoyed – and, in two cases, missed – during a recent, 10-day stay, much of it an exploration of South Beach food, in January, 2020.
Where to Eat in Miami: Old Favorites
Serendipitously, because Val’s family stays at the Fontainebleau, we dined, again, at Michael Mina’s StripSteak. I first interviewed the James Beard award-winning chef at Aqua, in San Francisco, to write about his lobster-cooking techniques. Years later, I sampled his butter-poached steak finished on a wood-burning grill at Bellagio, in Las Vegas, and ordered it subsequently at Bourbon Steak, at Turnberry Isle. Later, I wrote about RN74, in Seattle, one of the Michelin starred chefs 40 outlets. On this recent mid-January weekend, I craved the seared foie gras served with apricot marmalade and a brioche. And, because our host ordered the 50-ounce Australian Tomahawk steak for two– with crispy Brussel sprouts, parmesan truffle fries and asparagus — there was enough for me, the third person, to indulge — and take-home leftovers from my first-ever Tomahawk. Our shared dessert was a family-size portion of bread pudding. The only thing that vies with a Mina meal at the Fontainebleau is the attention-getting clothing, like the gold lamé beach cover-up that was backless-to-the-thighs!
Parmigiana, pasta, penne, pesce, pizza. These Italian staples are on countless menus; at Carpaccio, they’re special because quality counts, ambiance matters and service makes a difference. The indoor/outdoor Carpaccio is Val’s go-to restaurant at the ultra-stylish Bar Harbour Shoppes (Collins Avenue at 97th St), where the fashionable boutiques represent an ABC list of top designers: from Armani and Alexander (McQueen), Balenciaga and Chanel to Yves (St Laurent) and (Ermenegildo) Zegna. When the warm, soft wheat bread arrived, I knew dinner would be up to par: a tender veal marsala; rare beef Carpaccio topped with arugula and parmigiana cheese; penne, al dente, with pea-studded marinara sauce. And, chocolate covered profiteroles — the perfect shareable portion. Miguel’s service befits the sophisticated clientele: “Enjoy the drinks; take your time to order!” and “If you don’t like it, I’ll bring you something else.”
If I had my druthers, I would always get to Joe’s Stone Crab; the oldest and one of the most popular eateries in South Beach, for its bargain-priced fried chicken and its famous, seasonal stone crabs and key lime pie. (It’s a no reservation restaurant, so get there for 5pm, when they open, to avoid the long line.) My schedule didn’t allow for a visit to another long-loved favorite, The Bazaar by José Andrés inside the SLS Hotel. I admire Jose Andres, the creative chef and philanthropist and have visited his restaurants Jaleo in D.C., and Bazaar in L.A. and South Beach in the past. Some of my favorites at The Bazaar include Spanish staples that I love: jamón ibérico, lechon and my usual delight: Patatas Bravas, crisply-fried round pieces of potato, served with a spicy tomato sauce and aioli, a garlicky dressing. The Spanish-born chef who worked with Ferrán Adria at El Bulli and mentored Katie Button, (Curate, Asheville, NC), also serves Asian and Latin American dishes.
Photo courtesy Pixabay.com.
Where to Eat in Miami: New Discoveries
OLA is both a noteworthy discovery and an old favorite because of the brilliant meal I recall shortly after Douglas Rodriguez’ original OLA restaurant at the Sanctuary Hotel opened, c. 2003, featuring a Cuban pork dish with yuca mash. Sixteen years later, with Carlos Castro as the Executive Chef and much of the same staff, OLA reigns indoors and out at The Gates South Beach, very close to the Art Deco and oceanfront Shelborne, where we were staying. Our server, Oscar, recommended: crisp, square tostones; lobster ceviche; fire and ice cobia white fish with heirloom tomato and Asian pear sorbato and a light, crispy, shrimp chicharron (in a spicy sauce). Val loved the filet mignon churrasco topped with chipotle crabmeat salad, chimichurri, and grilled asparagus. We indulged in over-the-top finales: a chocolate mousse “bomb” arrived topped with toasted hazelnuts and caramel sauce, a cookie and coffee ice cream; the deconstructed key lime pie, featured a key lime custard, a crunchy cinnamon-walnut tuile, toasted meringue and vanilla bean ice cream.
OLA Chocolate Bombe. Photo courtesy of OLA.
We dined at Lure Fishbar South Beach, in the lobby of the original St. Moritz Tower while staying at Loews Hotel. I’ve never eaten at the original Lure, in SoHo, Manhattan and this was my first time at its southern sister outpost. Here, the marine-theme showcases fresh fish on ice, model ships and yacht-centric photographs and the décor features widely-spaced tables under stunning chandeliers and pale leather banquettes, where two-tops combine for groups who share sushi and raw bar towers. We were brought an extravagant amuse bouche for two: deviled eggs topped with caviar, cured salmon canapes on crispy rice balls and tuna-tartare tacos. We reordered seconds after devouring the wonderful jumbo stone crab appetizers. Then, grilled lobster, for me, and a filet with sautéed mushrooms, for Val. We also shared Key Lime Pie topped with berries and three little ice cream sandwiches: strawberry, chocolate and peanut butter, on a peanut butter cookie.
Lure Fishbar’s Amuse Bouche for two.
At the Carillon Wellness Resort, I ate alone at the bar at The Strand the first night, and sat between in-house-residents and spa guests seeking a restaurant recommendation. (The guys agreed on the recommendation below, Prima Pasta) Although The Strand offers a Wellness Menu and has a chef who prepares individualized menus: Vegan? Keto? Weight Watchers? Whatever…, these men shared a massive Tomahawk steak served on a family-sized wooden carving board with fingerling potatoes and veggies. One glance and I craved steak; the small, succulent and rare filet mignon with grilled vegetables satisfied. At two lunches, on the deck overlooking the pool and the ocean, the freshly prepared gazpacho was so good, we each ate it both days. My roasted chicken dish arrived atop grilled vegetables and Val’s pizza Margherita was thin and crisp. The following day, we each enjoyed the shrimp, mango and avocado salad and fresh fruit.
Café Prima Pasta was recommended by a colleague and by the Carillon residents; it’s a neighborhood restaurant off Collins Avenue on 70th Street, and it’s jammed packed every day. It has an outdoor café, a popular bar and multiple rooms; ours was dark, with a red chandelier, photograph-lined walls and wall-to-wall people. Our meal started with bruschetta and an array of appetizers: eggplant Parmagiana; fabulous lobster-stuffed gnocchi; shrimp, clams and lobster in a white sauce; carpaccio dressed in olive oil. We skipped entrees – pasta, ossobuco, veal giardino with truffle fries – and moved directly to a beautiful crème brulée fruit tart, a tiramisu and a chocolate cake with strawberries. Yum! (There are vegan and gluten free options, too.)
Prima Pasta’s Carpaccio.
Swan, which is located on the mainland in the Miami Design District, was recommended by a close friend and a lucky find. When we arrived for lunch without a reservation, there was one table available in the beautiful and fabulously landscaped, fenced-in corner courtyard. (There were some tables in the interior rooms, with trellis-covered walls.) Here, European menu items from creamy polenta to spicy Calabrian chili, plus Asian-accented ones starring kumquats, soy, sake, shiso and ginger, stud the menu. Starters range from smoked salmon to sushi and octopus to short rib ravioli and carpaccio. We shared the creative, unique and delectable Swan Caesar Salad, which arrived in a Romaine bouquet, wrapped in a leek leaf. The server made horizontal slices, divided it onto two plates, and topped it with rosemary breadcrumbs and Parmesan. Main dishes included seared scallops, branzino, Dover sole; chicken tagine, duck à l’orange, Porterhouse or Filet. We shared the perfectly-prepared Soy Sake topped salmon.
Swan restaurant’s unique serving presentation of Caesar Salad before it is cut and dressed.
I visited Time Out Market (on 16th Street and Drexel) twice, during a stroll along Lincoln Road and during my stay at Loews Hotel South Beach. This new, multi-venue, 17,500-square foot dining hall boasts two walls lined with specialized food stands serving prepared items, (mostly) high-top communal tables with stools and a wall-to-wall electronic screen (almost theater sized). As a huge fan of Time Out Market in Lisbon – a food hall where you can buy the best prepared foods as well as local and regional products and flowers – I was really keen on tasting specialties from some of Miami’s best chef-centric restaurants, such as Local Cuban cuisine, by chef Alberto Cabrera and fusion cuisine by James Beard winner Norman Van Aken. The variety ranges from ceviche to stone crabs, pizza to tacos, flan ice cream to pastries. It’s a fun place to watch a game, enjoy Happy Hour (with reduced price drinks) or bring kids for finger foods.
Our visits to our old favorites and new and noteworthy discoveries helped me update my list of where to eat in Miami for the next time I’m lucky enough to visit.
— Story and photos, except where noted, by Irvina Lew.
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