A food tour gave writer Jessica Dixon not only a sense of history, it also showed her where to eat in Roanoke, Virginia, a city that’s  a mix of classic and new, retro and hip.

The view from the Center of the square in Roanoke.

Roanoke, situated in Virginia’s Blue Ridge Mountains, is a city for seekers. Its steel and neon star, the largest of its kind, sits atop Mill Mountain, beckoning drivers on the Blue Ridge Parkway and hikers on the Appalachian Trail– both of which pass by town. Perhaps the most transformative byway was the railroad, which first arrived in 1852, when the town was still called Big Lick.

Grab a bite at the Texas Tavern, which is in Roanoke, Virginia!

Roanoke’s railroad history follows the familiar boom-and-bust arc. What had once brought exponential growth and the nickname “The Magic City” resulted in vacant buildings and an almost 40-year gap in passenger service, which just resumed last year. By the year 2000, there were as few as 50 people living downtown. In recent years, however, young professionals and retirees apace have flocked to the area; instigating the old railroad offices to redevelop into apartment buildings, with a growing waiting list to sign a lease. As I walked around historic downtown with Tour Roanoke, it was clear: this city’s magic has returned.

Where to eat in Roanoke:

We set out on a mile-long tasting tour that began at the Hotel Roanoke. Our guide, Becky Ingram, promised we’d have fun, learn, and get pleasantly full over the next three hours. No surprise, she was right.

The Tudor-inspired Hotel Roanoke was originally built in 1882 to provide suitably grand accommodations for executives arriving by rail. The hotel has been remodeled and expanded over the years, but the peanut soup and spoonbread have been menu staples at the hotel’s Regency Room since 1940. Our sample size of this rich soup was perfect, especially when paired with a skillet of spoonbread. The cornmeal-based dish is reminiscent of a soufflé that is both creamy and light, with a just-crisp top.

Hotel Roanoke’s Peanut Soup and Spoon Bread.

Next, we walked to Cedars Lebanese Restaurant, a family-owned spot that imports nearly every ingredient, perishables excepted, from Lebanon. This passion for authenticity carries through to their beer and wine selection, which features Lebanese imports paired perfectly with their traditional dishes. We tried minced-meat pies atop taboulleh (chopped onions, tomatoes, parsley and crushed wheat blended with olive oil and lemon juice). The hand-made pie pastry – soft yet sturdy, rather than flaky – holds a flavorful combination of beef, onions, and pine nuts.

The Cedar Lebonese restaurant in Roanoke.

We continued to Billy’s, formerly a saloon and (ahem) short-term stay hotel deceptively named The Ritz in Roanoke’s pre-Prohibition entertainment district. The night before Virginia went dry, locals and visitors spent $100,000 in this and other bars, amounting to over two million dollars today. After some twists and turns, Billy’s reopened in 2012, and they now serve classics such as steak, oysters, and chops in their wood-paneled dining room.

We were treated to shrimp and grits, paired with a local beer. These stone-ground white cheddar grits have bite: the habanero cream sauce adds smoky spice, and chopped country ham brings a subtle saltiness that just cuts through the rich sauce. The grits are topped with plump Virginia shrimp and vibrant grape tomatoes. The Roanoke Valley is home to a bustling craft beer scene, and the local IPA was hoppy without being heavy, bold enough to stand up to the cheesy grits.

Hearty Shrimp & Grits at Billy’s in Roanoke.

The walk to Texas Tavern was welcome, helping us make room for the next dish on our tasting tour: the Cheesy Western, a burger topped with cheese, pickle, and a fried egg, all on a soft white bun. Texas Tavern serves inexpensive diner classics (cheeseburgers are $1.75, “World Famous Chile” $1.90) at their 10-seat counter 24 hours a day. The Tavern opened in 1930 by Ringling Brothers advance man, Nick Bullington. Bullington’s great grandson, Matt, runs it today. Counter service is quick, so come prepared to shout your order.

The Texas Tavern, in Roanoke, Virginia.

Corned Beef & Co., with an upscale sports bar vibe, was the last savory spot on our tour. Here we tried their signature corned beef and sauerkraut on rye, with swiss cheese, mustard, and Russian dressing. Classic dishes leave no room to hide; thankfully, each ingredient is delicious. The corned beef is tender and a bit sweet, the sauerkraut holds its texture, and the bread is crisp.

A corned beef sandwich from Corned Beef & Co in Roanoke.

By the time we reached On The Rise Bread Company, I was worried I hadn’t saved room for dessert. Thankfully, I bravely soldiered on and tried the coconut cake, which was a worthy iteration of this classic. We ambled across the street, through a charming outdoor market, to chocolatepaper for our final treats: milk chocolate-covered potato chips and a caramel-filled dark chocolate topped with sea salt.

Chocolate treats chocolatepaper in Roanoke.

Before parting ways, we gathered on the rooftop of Center in the Square, a downtown arts and culture collective. From the roof, we could see the Roanoke Hotel and the Taubman Museum of Art, designed by Frank Gehry protégé, Randall Stout. Behind all the buildings and railroad tracks was the outline of the Blue Ridge Mountains, fading to their distinctive hazy blue in the distance. I felt pleasantly full.

The Taubman Museum in Roanoke.

Learn more about Roanoke, Virginia, on their tourism site, here. 

— Article and photos by Jessica Dixon

Hungry for more? Head to another article by Jessica, this time about Memphis!