While our home base of Colorado was experiencing frigid temperatures and snow late last Fall, my husband and I were having a cocktail on the patio in Scottsdale, Arizona. We almost felt guilty about it. Almost. As I write this, the whole country (and world) is at a near screeching halt due to the pandemic. So although nearly everything is shut down including pretty much everything we’re writing about here, I believe it is temporary and we will all travel again. And oh, how wonderful it’s going to feel! Scottsdale, Arizona will be a wonderful place to start. The cactus, lush flowers, beautiful architecture, and crisp blue sky won’t have felt the effects of the virus. They still go on, being stunning, just waiting for us to return. Here’s the very itinerary we followed, tried and true, for our trip to Scottsdale, Arizona, the Valley of the Sun. Follow along, find out what you can do in Scottsdale over the course of four days.

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A striking row of palm trees in Scottsdale at sunset.

What to do in Scottsdale, AZ on Day 1:

Morning: After arriving at Phoenix Sky Harbor airport on an easy flight with Southwest Airlines, brunch was the first order of business at Hash Kitchen Gainey Ranch, part of a toney outdoor shopping mall. We would have done a little shopping but a big rain storm directed us to just linger a little longer over our meal. Hash was created by a husband-and wife duo, Executive Chef Joey Maggiore and Cristina Maggiore, who came up with a clever restaurant serving hashes, frittatas, scrambles, pancakes and a dream Build-Your-Own-Bloody-Mary bar based in house-infused vodkas.

With add-ins like this, you could practically turn your Bloody Mary into a meal at Hash Kitchen.

Early afternoon: We checked in at the Hermosa Inn. We almost missed the entry because it’s amidst a residential area, not a high-rise in the middle of the city, which was great. That unique, homey sense was just a preview of what we’d find.

The charming set of adobe structures got its start as a homestead dating back to the 1930s. The authentic character of the wild southwest is expressed in the hand-hewn logs, tiles floors, and warm adobe walls. Meandering the paths throughout the grounds is a delight, full of flowering vines spilling over trellises, clusters of flowers popping through lush plantings that mingle with tangles of whimsically-shaped cactus varietals. Fountains and a swimming pool rimmed by towering palms complete the idyllic setting. Carefully blended into this verdant idyllic haven are spacious casitas with private patios. All the structures are on one level for a real feeling of seclusion.

Do like my husband did and relax a bit and then use one of Hermosa’s loaner bikes to tour around the area (The Arizona Biltmore Hotel is nearby).

Take a loaner bike around the neighborhood of the Hermosa Inn to discover beautiful architecture and landscape.

During that time, I had the wonderful opportunity to record a podcast with former Executive Chef Jeremy Pacheco of LON’s at the Hermosa, a Four Diamond restaurant at the Inn. Chef Pacheco has a nine generation, rich culinary lineage in Scottsdale. His knowledge of the history, food, and purveyors certainly shows as he talks, and in the meals he and his staff prepare. Speaking of which…

Evening: 

Dining at LON’s, Hermosa Inn’s signature restaurant, is a very special experience – definitely not a “let’s grab a bite” kind of place. The restaurant is in what was the private residence and art studio of 1930s cowboy artist, Lon Megargee. Some of the artists’ works can be found throughout the restaurant and bar area. Go early or stay late and enjoy a drink on the beautiful patio. We enjoyed a Chef’s Tasting Menu that showed off the variety from the menu. Each course was absolutely delicious, unique, and memorable.

Grilled seafood served as part of a Chef’s Tasting Dinner at Lon’s.

Secluded and romantic, linger on the patio outside of Lon’s.

What to do in Scottsdale, AZ on Day 2:

Morning: After waking early and enjoying a cup of coffee while strolling the lush grounds at Hermosa Inn, we checkout and checked in another beautiful place with a totally different feel. The Andaz Resort.

Palm trees with lush gardens? Check. Enormous swimming pool, cabanas and poolside bar? Check. Updated mid-century mod designed rooms, with bright shower rooms that offer views of the desert sky and nearby mountains as you bathe? Check. Onsite dining, lounging and sipping spaces filled with original art by local artists, overlooking it all? Check. Andaz Resort and spa is ideally situated in the middle of Scottsdale’s attractions, yet feels secluded and quiet. Clustered rooms dot the lushly landscaped grounds, providing a walkable village oasis in the desert. The spa offers luxurious treatments in calming spaces, designed to soothe and inspire wellness.

A hidden glimpse of the swimming pool at Andaz.

Weft + Warp’s dishes include local ingredients and history including the blue corn used in these pancakes, served with an orange-poppyseed creme anglaise and popcorn for crunch.

Early afternoon: After brunch at Andaz’s restaurant, Weft & Warp Art Bar + Kitchen, named in honor of weaving threads in two different directions, a nod to the hotel’s commitment to the arts. It’s a perfect prelude to a visit to the Cattle Track Arts Compound, a truly unique compound a short distance from the resort that many locals don’t even know about. Older than Scottsdale itself, this compound served a vital role in the early years of Scottsdale, and fulfills a unique role today as a vital community of artists. Living and working on this property are a collection of artists of varying genres – magician, author, painters, ceramicists, and more. A symbiotic relationship with the Andaz started when the resort founders sought out local artists to infuse the property with an authentic sense of place and time. Collectively, and in collaboration with the resort design team, the artists designed and crafted furniture, furnishings and art that fill the private rooms and public spaces of Andaz.

This is a community of hard-working artists who ply their trade in a scattering of structures surrounded by native desert plants. This is not a prettied up tourist trap – it is a bit rough and haphazard, whimsical accented by random bits of artistic detritus – discards of various projects sometimes arranged artfully, sometimes not. For those who love the idea of being an artist and want a glimpse into their lives – this is the place to visit. The grounds are open (check their website for hours), and if an artist is in their studio, they are likely to welcome your visit; but please remember they are working and may not be able to spare time for an extended visit… Such is the life of an artist!

Walking into Cattle Track means walking into artists’ real working space reflecting a wide variety of mediums.

Late afternoon: We went into downtown Scottsdale and grabbed a bar stool at Goldwater Brewing Co., a family owned and operated brewer and tasting room. We were tempted by each of the 14 beers on tap, many of which use local ingredients like cactus. We finally settled on Desert Rose, a good choice, while watching people pass by, outside.

Evening: Citizen Public House serves upscale American food in a relaxed but slightly upscale atmosphere. They are especially known for their Chopped Salad, prepared at your table. Try Googling “Citizen Public House Chopped Salad” and you’ll see how many websites have written about it and tried to recreate it. It even has its own Facebook page! It’s worth every bit of notoriety.

Prepared at your table, the Citizen House Original Chopped Salad deserves its reputation.

What to do in Scottsdale, AZ on Day 3:

Early, early morning: For an unforgettable way to see the Valley of the Sun, try a balloon ride! After rising before dawn and a half hour drive out of town with our friendly guide from Hot Air Expeditions, we found our launch pad in the desert brush, climbed in the giant basket, and floated away into the clear blue Arizona sky. After marveling at the views, we landed and were treated to a French-style breakfast buffet amid the cactus, complete with tables, chairs, linen tablecloths, and china plates. A champagne toast with keepsake glasses topped it off. Amazing! Read this article which gives you a first person, newbie’s account of what the hot air balloon experience is like so that you’ll be prepared.

Hot air balloons often take off from the same place because of conditions being just right. But they could land anywhere.

See what it’s like to take off in a hot air balloon!

Mid-day: Dreamers and artists are drawn to the desert. For decades, they have been flocked to Scottsdale for inspiration and energy. Frank Lloyd Wright founded his Taliesin West complex (read about our visit here, and decades later, a visionary Italian named Paolo Soleri found his way here and established Cosanti. As much artistic factory (unique wind bells) as architectural theory come to life, Cosanti is a wondrous mini-universe to behold. Our guide showed us “behind the scenes” areas as she shared stories of his visions of sustainable human development and design. As well, she explained the darker side of his character and the assertions of abuse by his daughter. This truthful profile of a brilliant yet very flawed and troubled man left us wondering about his legacy. The foundation and school that remains acknowledge his faults and strives to fulfill a mission of improving the future through sustainable human lifestyle choices and respect for and harmony with nature. A worthy goal indeed.

The bells of Cosanti hanging, for sale, in the unique architecture that was all part of the vision.

Afternoon: For an adventure of an urban sort, head to Scottsdale Fashion Square, a regional shopping mecca, and head inside to for the interactive art installations at Wonderspaces. Close by is the Scottsdale Waterfront, a pedestrian-friendly hub of activity where cafes and restaurants with sprawling outdoor terraces reflect in the smooth running waters of the Arizona Canal. At night, shop windows and illuminated art pieces add unexpected whimsy, and when a bright moon is overhead – it is magical and romantic. For a desert city, the presence of water in Scottsdale is striking; fountains gush, swimming pools sparkle, and emerald green golf courses with lush plantings abound.

Late afternoon: We parked our car and prepared for back-to-back wine tastings. Thank goodness we were in a walkable area within downtown Scottsdale! The two memorable wine tasting rooms offered sips of Arizona’s wine growing regions. Merkin Vineyards has vines in the Verde Valley and near Wilcox (where they also grow vegetables), and offers a wide range of styles in a slick contemporary space. Along with snack trays of locally made cheeses, it is a tony place to see and be seen.

Some snacks (bread and flavored butter and goat cheese with candied almonds), enjoyed with a flight of wines from Merkin Vineyards.

LDV Winery is a husband and wife passion project; together they operate their winery and tasting room from vineyard dirt in the far southeastern part of Arizona, where the land rises providing a sunny and cooler climate with perfect soils for viticulture, to the final glass. We found their wines, especially the reds, to be flavorful and luscious. And we found their company to be welcoming and inspiring. Their love story for wine and each other was fascinating and heart-warming.

As night fell, we took a pre-dinner stroll among fanciful lights around Old Town.

Evening: Dinner was at the tucked away FnB Restaurant in what appeared to be a former home. Chef Charleen Badman received the James Beard Foundation’s 2019 Best Chef: Southwest award. She’s known for creating elevated vegetable creations from local sources. Co-owner Pavle Milic makes the rounds, doting over every guest as though you are a guest in his home. He also talks up his carefully curated Arizona wine list.

FnB restaurant serves a traditional Portuguese bread soup with garlic, cilantro, poached egg and olive oil.

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What to do in Scottsdale, AZ on Day 4:

Early morning: Go on a desert hike! Saguaros, ocotillos, Palo Verdes… a whole new vocabulary is needed to describe Scottsdale’s desert landscape when hiking its expansive nature reserves. Guided by a local from REI Co-Op Experiences, we started early to enjoy the sunrise and minimize the heat. He explained, as we scrambled over the rough stony trails, how Arizona’s deserts are wholly unique among the deserts of the world. It doesn’t freeze for extended periods of time, and it enjoys two rainy seasons. This means the Sonoran Desert is lush and full of life, compared with the Sahara, Kalahari or even that of Death Valley. This desert is more than sand and baked rocks – it teems with life that has evolved incredible methods to survive the extremes. Saguaros, for example, are built accordion-like with the ability to swell as its shallow roots absorb water from the summer monsoons and winter rains. The citizens of Scottsdale from early days set aside vast tracts of land to forever preserve and celebrate the desert garden; miles of trails invite hiking, mountain biking, nature walks – or even yoga.

Yoga in a peaceful, natural setting.

Mid-day: We returned to the Andaz for a refreshing shower after all that hiking and checked out. Having worked up a big appetite on the hike, in all of that fresh air, we were ready for lunch. Hula’s Modern Tiki Bar, serves up a mean MaiTai and flavorful Pacific Rim inspired plates in a fun atmosphere. It was a great way to end our time in Scottsdale before heading back to the airport.

Don’t miss the Ceviche with wonton crisps to go with a cocktail at Hula’s Modern Tiki.

A visit to Scottsdale is a quick and easy treat, and a long weekend can be filled with unique and memorable activities. Or just quiet lounging about by a pool. Or hiking and cycling and ballooning. Or shopping and eating and wine tastings… Or all of the above. Scottsdale’s authentic character comes through everywhere you go with a rough and ready past blended with an artistic and energetic present.

— Story and photos by Courtney Drake-McDonough and James McDonough, publishers of RealFoodTraveler.com

Learn more about Scottsdale here. Enjoy this podcast with Executive Chef Jeremy Pacheco of LON’s Restaurant in The Hermosa Inn. 

Also, as is often the case for travel and food writers, portions of our trip were hosted by the destination, restaurants, and hotels to help facilitate the experience for a visitor. However, as is our policy as journalists, we never let that sway our opinions which are our own, honest and true. To learn more, read our About page.