A magical time in a mystical place during a meaningful season. That’s what it was like to spend Christmas Eve in Santa Fe, New Mexico, amidst the glow of traditional farolitos. See what the experience was like for Jimmy McDonough, Real Food Traveler’s Eco-Friendly Food, Travel & Adventure Editor, to help you plan your own visit.

Save this article to Pinterest to help you plan your visit to Santa Fe’s Farolitos Walk on Christmas Eve. Photos by Jimmy McDonough and Visit Santa Fe. Graphic by RealFoodTraveler.com.

Santa Fe’s Mystique

You know how there are some places you visit, and there is a feeling of connection, of belonging? A visceral feeling in your bones and heart that can’t be explained by logical reason?

The Cathedral Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi in Santa Fe.

For me, Santa Fe is such a place. When my wife and I drove here on our honeymoon, we both felt a sense of wonder and comfort. Since then, we have returned many times to enjoy the landscape, energy, and culture of Santa Fe and northern New Mexico. For us, this place offers a spiritual element we find nourishing. We don’t know why, but it is very real.

A quintessential Santa Fe experience that eluded us for decades was the Canyon Road Farolito Walk which takes place annually, on Christmas Eve night. It’s a time when the community gathers in simple celebration of the season to stroll the narrow streets and paths along adobe walls warmed by the glow of thousands of candles in simple paper bags (farolitos, also known as luminarias).

Farolitos line pathways of storefronts, aglow for the holidays in the Canyon Road area.

Christmas 2024 found us driving back to Denver from holiday adventures in Arizona’s Valley of the Sun and an overnight in Santa Fe on Christmas Eve was possible – at last!

Hungry for more? Here’s a 4-Day Itinerary for Scottsdale, Arizona.

At dusk we headed for the Canyon Road district where the walk takes over for the night. Traffic was heavy and parking was sparse the closer we got, so we parked on the street at the state government complex and started walking. This gave us an opportunity to view the impressive buildings and art on the grounds of the state capitol complex – somewhere we had never visited before. Note to self – check it out again on a future visit!

More and more Farolito seekers joined us and, by the time we arrived at Canyon Road, the streets were filled. An air of holiday cheer and sheer happiness was palpable as the stream of humanity flowed through courtyards and alleys, all adorned with lights and candle glow. Galleries, doors propped open, beckoned passersby to pause and enjoy their collections. Cafes and restaurants welcomed diners. Shop owners offered free cups of cocoa, cider, and cookies as a show of Santa Fe hospitality. Music filled the air – from musicians in courtyards and from spontaneous caroling from the crowd. Overhead, bright stars filled the chilly sky.

A fire dancer performs outside of a gallery along Canyon Road.

Our magical night continued as we left Canyon Road and meandered into the old city center where more lights and warmth greeted us. The streets were alive with celebrants and positive energy. Shop windows glowed with art and spectacular southwestern jewelry. Santa Fe’s human scale and walkability are endearing. Day or night it is an enchanting place.

Turquoise jewelry in a store window in downtown Santa Fe.

Our Santa Fe Christmas Eve experience was memorable and meaningful. Although the crowds were much larger than we anticipated, the joy of a community gathering in such a beautiful way was powerful.

People gather among artwork and farolitos along Canyon Road in Santa Fe.

When you visit Santa Fe during the holidays, be sure to try these local delicious traditional foods:

Biscochitos – the official state cookie of New Mexico, has a lighter than expected texture with flavors of anise and cinnamon.  See a recipe in the “Hungry for More?” bar below.

Biscochitos are a delicious, light, spiced cookie popular during the holidays. They are native to New Mexico.

Hungry for more? Bake New Mexico’s delicious Biscochitos Cookie recipe.

Chile – a New Mexican meal staple, red or green chile (NOT to be confused with “chili”!) sauce ladled over tamales (typically stuffed with tender pork), chile rellenos (stuffed with cheese), or blue corn enchiladas (filled with chicken or just about anything!) is a must. Order it “Christmas” for a serving of each – red and green chile!

Hungry for more? Make this recipe for Pork Tamales with Red or Green Chile Sauce.

Posole – this simple stew is made with hominy (giant corn kernels) in a spicy, subtly complex broth. On a chilly Sante Fe night, a hot bowl of it feeds and warms the soul.

Wash down your meal with New Mexico beers and wines – Santa Fe is home to numerous breweries and wineries to the north and south of the city produce some good wines. In fact, wine was first produced here hundreds of years before anywhere else in the U.S. by Spanish settlers! Learn more about this underappreciated history on the New Mexico tourism website.

Farolitos lined up in front of a shop in Santa Fe. Photo courtesy of Visit Santa Fe.

A few tips to make the most of your Canyon Road Farolito Walk experience:

• Get lodging as close to the historic center as possible to enjoy the holiday vibes on foot and to not have to worry about parking. If you drive, there are free shuttles that run from designated parking lots.
• Go early at dusk to avoid the crowds – they build as the night progresses. That said, allow hours to absorb the ambience and explore all the delightful nooks and crannies of the sprawling arts district.
• Dress in festive layers – winter in Santa Fe is chilly and snow is not unheard of. This crowd dresses to impress – get in the spirit and wear your best western outfit or cheery holiday ensemble!
• Walk carefully to avoid tripping – uneven surfaces can be hard to spot in the streets kept dark to enhance the Farolito ambiance.
• Let loose your inhibitions – join the caroling fun or start a round yourself!

Learn more about the history of Santa Fe and Farolitos on the Visit New Mexico website.

Read about a mouth-watering day of New Mexico foodie experiences you won’t want to miss.

Book your stay in Santa Fe with our affiliate link.

-Story and photos, except where noted, by Jimmy McDonough

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