One of the joys of culinary travel is discovering restaurants and cuisine that go beyond expectations or perceptions. That’s what happened to RealFoodTraveler.com contributor, Lina Zeldovich when she discovered Iberian food surprises in a rural area of Spain’s Pyrenees mountains. 

Save this article about Iberian food discoveries in Spain’s Aragon region to Pinterest to keep them handy. Photos by Lina Zeldovich. Graphic by RealFoodTraveler.com.

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Iberian Food Discoveries

Five village restaurants in the Iberian Pyrenees you should visit for an unforgettable meal

Our tour van parks next to a tall tree in Larués, a tiny village in the Aragon region of Spain’s Pyrenees, and our group pours out, hungry for lunch. We just spent the whole morning touring the 11th century Loarre Castle in Aragon’s Huesca Province, now known as the filming location of Kingdom of Heaven—and we are ready for food. I’m expecting some simple sandwich, soup or salad bites, but that’s not what happens. Turns out, we’re in for a real treat.

Despite having less than 100 dwellers, the village boasts a dining spot that can rival a Michelin-star establishment. Named Molino de Larués, the restaurant surprises all of us with tastes and presentations—think ice cream floating in a tomato and cherry soup inside handmade pottery. Or chicken with curry sauce and sunflower seeds, which arrives in a hand-carved wooden box.

Chicken with curry sauce and sunflower seeds at Molino de Larués.

One may think that Molino de Larués is a unique exception, but in Aragon, these gourmet rural eateries aren’t unusual. Abandoned in the mid-20th century after Spain’s civil war and World War II, these timeless medieval villages are now celebrating their cultural and culinary comeback. Thanks in large part to the locals who are reviving their ancestral homes, these places are now farm-to-table foodies’ paradises, serving the freshest local cheeses, meats, produce, pastries, olive oil and wine. Here are the five rural restaurants in the Aragon region you should visit for an unforgettable meal.

Molino de Larués in Larués

A brainchild of highly creative chef Joaquín Moreno, Molino de Larués combines traditional cuisine with modern touches, often relying on slow and low-temperature cooking techniques, among other methods. Moreno’s creations are truly hyperlocal—he is part of the “zero kilometers” movement, in which food ingredients must travel as little as possible—so nearly everything comes from the nearby villages: the beef from Aísa, the goat meat from Atarés, the suckling pig from Tensina, all located within an hour away from Larués.

La Cocinilla in Torla

At the entrance to the beautiful Monte Perdido National Park, inside the village of Torla, hides another undiscovered culinary find, La Cocinilla. Serving such unique dishes as slow-stewed pig cheeks, cod loin with honey, or breadcrumbs cooked with egg and grapes—a traditional local shepherd dish—it’s a must-visit after your day-long hike in the park. A puff pastry with roasted apples and crème anglaise—a delightful mix of milk, egg yolks, sugar, with a pinch of vanilla—will make another memorable delight. After that, stop at the nearby artisanal cheese factory Quesería Val de Broto that makes several types of cheeses—and offers tastings.

Puff pastry with roasted apples and crème anglaise at La Cocinilla.

La Vinoteca in Alquézar

Located in the foothills of the Pyrenees, within the Sierra y Cañones de Guara Natural Park, the village of Alquézar dates back to the 9th century. The name Alquézar comes from an Arabic word Al-Qasr or Al-Quasr, which means a castle or a fortress. It was built as a military outpost by Jalaf ibn Rashid, one of the leaders of Islamic people of African descent, who at the time were called the Moors. During the subsequent wars, Alquézar joined Aragon, which became part of the Spanish kingdom.

During the 20th century, most of Alquézar residents had left, looking for work in the industrial sector in larger towns and the village was nearly abandoned. But in the past decade, Alquézar came roaring back, thanks to its Medieval charm, centuries-old stonewall buildings, beautiful views of the surrounding countryside—and its gastronomy. Today, Alquézar is a foodies’ paradise with several dozens of authentic eateries, including the recently opened La Vinoteca, which serves traditional dishes with modern twists—local sausages are a must-try. Another unique Alquézar find is Panaderia O’Forno, a family-owned bakery known for its authentic dobladillos—a thin crispy folded pastry, stuffed with almond or fruit, unique to the region. Want to walk off the calories? At the edge of town, steps lead into the River Vero canyon for a breathtaking hike over natural waterfalls and through a forest of century-old olive trees.

Local sausages at La Vinoteca.

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Nyibeta Degustacion in Buera

A short drive away from Alquézar, lies Buera, another tiny village with a hidden gastronomy treasure. In addition to its 18th century oil press that offers olive oil tastings, Buera boasts Nyibeta Degustacion, another family-owned gourmet eatery, offering a long list of high-end tapas perfectly paired with local wines. Serving familiar favorites like salmon tataki, classic roasted lamb with potatoes, and Spanish traditional treats like fideuá de pulpo, an octopus dish with short wheat noodles, a variation of paella, Nyibeta can throw a challenge to a Michelin-star gourmet. Save space for dessert—chilled strawberry soup with floating ice cream is to die for.

Salmon Tataki at Nyibeta Degustacion.

Canfranc Express in Canfranc Estacion

Many Aragon’s rural gems may rival Michelin-star sports, but Canfranc Express had already earned one. Set inside a remodeled antique train car parked next to Canfranc Estacion—a train station that once connected the Spanish and French Pyrenees, and today a five-star hotel—the restaurant serves dishes that resemble works of art and taste like ones too. When the station was first built in the small hamlet of Canfranc in 1925, it was one of the largest and most beautiful in Europe. Yet, by the 1970s, when train travel fell out of style, so did the Canfranc splendor and the station fell in disrepair. Today, however, the travelers are back, drawn by the hotel’s restored grandeur and the Canfranc Express cuisine. Meat lovers will relish duck breast with orange blossom, as well as and fillet mignon, while pescatarians will savor wild corvina sea bass with mushroom chips and toasted hazelnut; meanwhile Canfranc’s version of run-infused sponge cake will please everyone.

Duck with orange blossom at Canfranc Express.

-Story and photos by Lina Zeldovich

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