Welcome writer Jessica Dixon to RealFoodTraveler.com. She brings us a glimpse of a colorful weekend in Havana, complete with some essential tips for a successful journey.

The Malecón, where seemingly all of Havana gathers in the evening.

Havana: the name itself evokes images of vintage cars, good rum, and illicit cigars. I touched down in Cuba’s capital for a 36-hour adventure, and Havana proved even more vibrant than the time capsule I had envisioned.

Home base was the Meliá Cohiba, an upscale hotel near the Malecón seafront, in the modern part of town. The lobby is large and gracious, with a chic bar where I enjoyed my first espresso. Though the hotel is listed as 5-star, rooms are comfortable rather than luxurious and boast stunning views of the city and the sea. The hotel provides WiFi on the property, but service is frequently unreliable – I chose to embrace the spirit of escape and enjoy the weekend “unplugged.”

A modern part of town near the hotel Meliá Cohiba.

A brisk walk down the Malecón brought me to La Chucheria, a casual sports bar where the service is relaxed enough to offer plenty of time for people-watching. Locals smoke and greet each other with kisses and loud laughter outside the café. Teenagers make their way along the Malecón, avoiding spray from the waves that crash up over the seawall.

With the sun still warm – Cuba enjoys a tropical climate, though evening temperatures get cool in winter – I ventured to the Meliá Cohiba’s rooftop pool. The hotel has several upscale restaurants. The only nourishment I needed was a mojito and a chance to watch the breeze in the palm trees.

The rooftop pool at Meliá Cohiba is the perfect spot for cool mojito and a quick swim.

As evening approached, a friend (and fluent Spanish speaker) joined me on a taxi ride to Old Havana, a UNESCO World Heritage site. We began our walk outside the Hotel Parque Central and wound our way through narrow streets bordered by beautiful neo-Classical buildings painted fresh white or faded, once-vibrant colors.

Men stood leaning against their old American cars, some beautifully restored and others held together by tape and sheer will. Newer European models drove incongruously down the streets, threading through crowds of people heading for outdoor cafes. We could hear music as we walked by each building, with floor-to-ceiling doors and windows open to catch the breeze.  There are plenty of shops along the way selling typical tourist wares. Be sure to bring all the money you think you’ll need in cash – any attempt to use a US-based credit or debit card, or even logging onto your bank account, will result in frozen funds.

Strolling Old Havana.

We stopped at El Floridita, one of Hemingway’s old haunts, for a famous daquiri, which the bartenders blend continuously behind the bar. A photo op with a life-size bronze bust of Hemingway was too much fun for me to pass up, and other tourists followed suit.

Our evening ended on the rooftop terrace at El Cocinero, a hip restaurant that serves Cuban and international cuisine. The menu leaned more European than Cuban. The local rum was cheap and plentiful. It was worth the climb up narrow iron stairs to reach the bar housed inside a brick chimney, with a beautiful view of the city and the nightlife scene below – young people gathered at La Fabrica de Arte, an art and event space next door.

I taxied back to my hotel at midnight, though the town showed no signs of quieting. I tried to speak Spanish with the driver – even a rudimentary knowledge of Spanish is helpful there – but he responded in English.

“Do you like Cuba?” he asked, turning around to make expectant eye contact.

“I love it,” I responded, truthfully. “I can’t wait to come back.”

He seemed surprised and pleased and urged me to invite my friends and family on the next trip. I plan to take his advice.

— Story and photos by Jessica Dixon.

If you go:
Brush up on your Spanish: many Cubans speak English, but a few key phrases come in handy when taking taxis and visiting local restaurants.

Plan your trip through an authorized tour operator, such as Insight Cuba or Cuba Educational Travel. Recent changes to travel restrictions have limited individual travel to Cuba from the U.S., and these itineraries often feature unique cultural and educational experiences.

Hungry for more? After writing this article, Jessica had the opportunity to read and review a beautiful photography book about Cuba’s past called 
Cuba Then: Revised and Expanded. See what she thought of it, here.