Vast, scenic landscapes of rugged canyons, mountains and desert valleys under wide open skies. Small towns and truck stops. This is southern Utah. A sophisticated wine tasting room serving a wide selection of award-winning locally crafted wines. Authentic Kansas City style BBQ at 10,000 feet above sea level, and outstanding BBQ in a tiny mountain valley town. Americana fare serving locally raised meats in an authentically Western atmosphere. Homemade pastries, made from scratch. This is also southern Utah.

For those seeking adventures in Utah’s magnificent National Parks (the “Big Five” explored here), there are also culinary treasures worth seeking out. On a recent winter trip to experience the various snowy pleasures of Southern Utah, described here, I enjoyed some unexpected culinary treats worth sharing.

Cedar City, “Festival City USA”, is a cultural hub for this region – and full of surprises for a small college town of 30,000. Home to the Utah Shakespeare Festival, where an outdoor theater with “Elizabethan-inspired architecture” hosts productions June through October. A striking modern building houses SUMA (the Southern Utah Museum of Art). A short block’s walk from the Shakespeare theatre is I/G Winery – perhaps most surprising of all! The sophisticated yet comfy tasting room blends flashes of colorful art with warm woods; grab a seat by the fireplace to sip an array of award winning wines, all crafted on site in the spotless space in back. Crops of high quality California grapes are sourced to craft a wide array of wines. On my visit, the stand-outs included a not-too-sweet porch pounder Riesling (think summer picnic with fruit and cheese in the park before Romeo and Juliet down the street). And Allicante – a robust and lusty red crafted with vines of Spanish origins (think grilled steak when camping in nearby Bryce Canyon, or a hearty beef stew after skiing at Eagle Point!).

A bit more expected in this rugged region, just up Highway 14 in a nearby canyon is Milt’s Stage Stop restaurant. With a long and colorful history (celebrated in photos on the walls and on the huge menu “paddles”), Milt’s is a family run restaurant with a warm, authentically Old West atmosphere; the main log cabin dining room has a roaring fireplace and hunting trophy heads, while the adjacent room has big picture windows to watch the wild deer who amble by. Milt’s takes pride in their homemade offerings, including dressings at the self-serve salad bar, using family recipes for sides and desserts. For dinner I enjoyed locally-raised Utah lamb chops, while my dining companions enjoyed fish, prime rib, shrimp, and steaks. All portions were hearty, nicely prepared, and served with a smile and small town warmth. Everyone left full and happy.

Not far from the main entrance to Bryce Canyon National Park, Tropic is a tiny town that hosts BBQ worth the journey. Tiny and cute as can be, idk BBQ is a family run shop serving up BBQ perfection. The brisket was absolute perfection – served by the pound, it comes wrapped in foil – all smoky bark and moist, beefy deliciousness. Side dishes are spot on, simple perfection. Alcohol is not served in house, so while you wait, head to the grocery store a few doors down and grab some beer to enjoy with your ‘Q. Despite a full belly, don’t be a fool and leave without ordering the creamy, rich peach cobbler. Order a large and share. Or keep it to yourself. Trust me.

To the north of Cedar City are a couple of ski resorts with noteworthy eats. Named after the imposing flat top mountain peak looming above, Brian Head is both town and ski resort. A fun place to linger is at the base of the main ski lift, in the Last Chair Saloon where authentic Kansas City style BBQ is served up; only hickory wood is allowed to smoke the hundreds of pounds of meats served daily. The ribs I gnawed had a perfect bark spiced with a dry rub, cradling moist meat with a good tug and chew. Sauce was offered and politely declined – no need to smother this perfect blend of pork, smoke and spice. Surprisingly different and delicious was a meatless veggie burger here at lunch! Another surprise – the prices are very reasonable, not at all what you might expect from a ski resort.

(Fun side note: The name Brian Head comes from… Well, there are two stories. One is that it was named after then President William Jennings Bryan, to curry favor. Another is that it was named after a land Surveyor who accompanied early explorers of the region.)

Eagle Point is a small ski area without a town; besides bringing and cooking your own food in a condo, the only culinary option are the two lodges. Canyonside Lodge serves up breakfast and dinner in a high-ceilinged timbered dining space, fire roaring in a rugged fireplace. The menu offers mostly hearty American fare like steaks, with a few surprises offered like big beefy shrimp cocktail and pasta. For on-mountain lunches, the Skyline Lodge offers sandwiches, soups, salads, all made to order. A real standout for sweet tooths like me, are the pastries. Homemade carrot cake with cream cheese frosting was so rich and delicious, it begged to be shared after dinner. At lunch, grab one of their big cookies – the oatmeal spice with apricot was a surprise winner.

Like many states, Utah has a conflicted relationship with alcohol and contrary to popular belief, Utah is NOT a dry state and is home to a dynamic craft beer brewing, spirits distilling and emerging wine scene. That said, here’s a primer to imbibing in Utah (DISCLAIMER – this is not legal advice!):

• Beer can be purchased in grocery stores, including local craft beers.
• Liquor stores are state-run; in small ski towns, this typically means a very limited selection.
• Servers and bartenders cannot give you another drink when you already have one in front of you – “two fisted drinking” not allowed!
• Happy hours are a no-no.
• Anyone under 21 years of age are not allowed in bars that serve mostly alcohol.
• Restaurants may serve alcohol, but if they have a bar, then a “Zion Wall” must be erected to visually shield children from the evils of booze.
• Draft beer may not exceed 4% ABV.
• Some restaurants may allow you to bring in wine; call ahead and find out.
• Alcohol is dispensed at exactly 1 oz at a time, so no “doubles”.
• Everyone must show proof of age (driver’s license, passport, etc.) to get served.

Despite these peculiarities, I found much to sip and savor in the Beehive State. While skiing at Brian Head, light and fruity Wasatch Brewing Apricot Hefeweizen was perfect at lunch with a tasty veggie burger and then at dinner with their Kansas City style BBQ ribs in the Last Chair Saloon. For apres ski noshing in the Canyonside Lodge bar at Eagle Point, a Moab Brewing Stout hit the spot. When feasting at idk BBQ in Tropic, a six pack of Hoodoo Kolsch Golden Ale from Uintah Brewing (purchased at the grocery store down the block) was an ideal quencher.

BONUS: A fun Utah culinary tradition is Fry Sauce, as in a dipping sauce for your French Fries. Recipes vary and are often closely guarded family secrets, but all seem to play off a base of mayonnaise and ketchup. Some add dashes of mustard, spice, and perhaps hot sauce. When dining in Southern Utah, eat like a local and ask for Fry Sauce with your fries!

Hungry for more? Find out about the unique ski experiences that await in Southern Utah.