Colorado is a long, long way from Argentina but it’s easy to get authentic empanadas in the heart of the city. This article originally appeared in our Colorado-centric sister site, InGoodTasteDenver.com. The Maria Empanada shops have long been a favorite of us locals but one of our writers recently had the opportunity to see just what goes into the making of an empanada. In the process, he got a deeper look at the woman-owned business, the delightful story behind the name, and the impact of the Latino/Latina culture on business, everywhere. When visiting Colorado, be sure to stop by a Maria Empanada location for a taste of Argentina.
Save this article about authentic Argentinian empanadas at Maria Empanada in Denver to Pinterest to keep it handy. Photos by Jimmy McDonough. Graphic by RealFoodTraveler.com.
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“Pockets of love” is how the team at Maria Empanada describe their product. Flaky dough pockets stuffed with wholesome ingredients – their empanadas come in an array of savory and sweet versions. Gazing in the display case is drool worthy with neat rows of golden-brown half-moons filled with variations of chicken, beef, and vegetables. Vegetarian options are equally delicious; the mushroom reminded me of a meatless beef wellington. Buy a box at a discount; I found Maria’s empanadas reheat nicely for quick lunches.
Maria Empanada serves a variety of types of empanada there at the shop, to take home, and to freeze for later.
A sweet empanada with poached pears in Madeira sauce was a treat. Other popular desserts of Argentina on display include Alfajore (a decadent shortbread draped in chocolate and dulce de leche) and the Victoria (a lemony cheesecake, with a lighter less dense texture than NY style cheesecake).
Sweet treats at Maria Empanada include Alfajor.
The story of how Maria Empanada came to Denver is the story of Lorena Cantarovici. Lorena left her homeland of Argentina to pursue the American dream. When she made her empanadas to feed friends and family, they encouraged her to start her own business and sell to others. Starting out small, she named her business after her heroines – her mother, grandmother and great-grandmother, all named Maria. From childhood, the Marias taught Lorena the ways of Argentina’s cooking.
Lorena Cantarovici, owner of Maria Empanada, demonstrates how to make empanadas.
For years she sought financial backing to grow her business; for years, she was denied. Even with a solid business plan, an immigrant, woman-owned business was not considered a good investment. Despite the fact that the American Latino market is growing at 2.5 the U.S. average and comprises trillions in buying power. Ignorant stereotypes and biases die hard.
Finally, a break and she secured funds to open a kitchen in Lakewood then soon moved to a storefront on South Broadway and business was good. A segment on Guy Fieri’s show Diners, Drive-Ins, and Dives sparked national attention. Additional locations were opened and Lorena’s dream of success was becoming a phenomenal reality.
Then the pandemic hit. Economic reality forced her to lay off many staffers, who she considers as family. She scaled her operations to match the new reality. To reduce pressures on her kitchen staff, the unique dough-pinching style used to differentiate each empanada was replaced with a uniform, more efficient process. Now edible ink is used to label each empanada. The stuffing remains the same – Lorena’s delicious, homey Argentinian recipes made with quality ingredients that make her empanadas a satisfying meal for people on the go.
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With energy and warmth that welcomes anyone and everyone, Lorena speaks passionately in support of the people in Denver food industry. First-hand, she knows the continuing stress the people of her industry suffers. Ever the “can do” person, Lorena and her leadership team strive to make Maria Empanada a force of good in Denver. Such is the power of Maria Empanada’s pockets of love.
I learned of the story behind Maria Empanada at a special event where Lorena taught a group of media attendees the art of folding empanadas with the traditional dough pinching technique. A fun experience, helped along with Pinguinos de Vino (adorable penguin-shaped carafes of wine – penguins are adored by Argentinians) and housemade sangria, it was more challenging than one would imagine.
During a hands-on class, we were given the makings for several kinds of empanada.
Manual dexterity and practice are needed to perfect the 13-pinch, braid-style fold required for the “Argentina” empanada. Lorena has competed in Argentina’s empanada-making competitions and is considered one the best. Like the more common-to-Denver holiday tamalada, consider gathering friends and family to make empanadas for a fun new tradition! Visit her press page for videos with helpful tips.
I made three traditional shapes of empanada at Maria Empanada which, traditionally, would indicate what filling is inside.
There are three locations of Maria Empanada in Colorado:
1700 Platte Street and 1298 S. Broadway Ave. in Denver and 2501 Dallas St. inside Stanley Marketplace, in Aurora. Visit their website for more information.
-Story and photos by Jimmy McDonough, RealFoodTraveler.com Eco-friendly Food & Travel Adventure Editor
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