It’s one of the more popular areas on the Gulf side of Mexico and with good reason. Beautiful and a mix of locals, tourists, and ex-pats, there are delights to be found all around. And delicious food, too, as Irene Middleman Thomas found on a recent visit.

Save this article about where to eat in Playa del Carmen to Pinterest to keep it handy. Photos by Irene Middleman Thomas. Graphic by RealFoodTraveler.com.

True Gastronomy! Where to eat in Playa del Carmen

If you thought Mexico beach vacations were all about gluttony and endless watered-down cocktails at all-inclusive resorts – you haven’t been paying attention. In the past decade or so, most resorts greatly upped their offerings, employing acclaimed chefs with state-of-the-art cuisine. 

Playa del Carmen, 40 miles to the south of Cancun, was once known solely as the launch point for the ferry to the island of Cozumel. Cozumel lies 12 miles offshore to the east. A small quiet fishing village some 30-40 years ago, Playa is now a bustling city with over 300,000 inhabitants, many of them expats. With the incredibly beautiful Caribbean waters of Cancun (an infinity of turquoises!) the beaches of Playa’s (as it is affectionately called) have much less surf, due to the Great Mayan Reef as well as Cozumel as a barrier. Happily, even kids can lazily float around and relax in the mild waves.

The beach area, known as Playa Car, is filled with rather posh homes, condominiums and a slew of hotels, including all-inclusives. Those who are active enough to go on a short stroll will be rewarded by three small Mayan ruins amidst the jungle vegetation. I was delighted to be joined by a scampering colony of “mapaches,” a raccoon-like animal which lives in the region.

But on to the FOOD, the glorious FOOD! Staying at the adults-only Royal Hideaway Playacar, I was tempted to partake only of the truly superb cuisine included with the accommodation, but of course, SOMEbody has to try the independent restaurants in town. Fortunately, that meant me! 

Ceviche from Royal Hideaway.

Hungry for more? See what it’s like to visit Guanajuato, Mexico.

The Royal Hideaway Playacar has six dining venues, all earning excellent reviews. The crème de la crème, however, is Las Ventanas, the à la carte restaurant which requires reservations and does accept non-guests. It also offers a sumptuous, rather decadent (in a good way!) “Chef’s Table,” which consists of a 6 or 12 course gourmet tasting menu designed by the executive chef and his team. This experience does require an additional charge for hotel guests. I was dazzled by the presentation and flavors of the dishes and loved them all. But I have to admit that my never-forget was the paleta de frutos rojos, an upscale “popsicle” of fresh berries, with dark chocolate and raspberry sauce, artfully set upon black river rocks and green leaves. 

A fanciful popsicle from Las Ventanas at Royal Hideaway in Playa del Carmen.

Hungry for more? Read about more of the dining options at Royal Hideaway Playacar.

Other places to eat in Playa del Carmen

I lived in Cancun back in the days when there were just seven hotels and Playa del Carmen was mostly known as the ferry embarkation point. So I worried a bit about how it had changed in a relatively short time. I must say I was very pleased to find some quiet lanes and streets, (not including the tourist overload of Quinta Avenida, albeit it fun.) Lush foliage was left in place, bougainvillea cascaded down walls and small lizards ran about. 

Breakfast was an absolute delight at the very popular Amate 38, across the street from the equally inviting La Cueva del Chango, both bistros set in a rainforest-like garden, and with the same owner. Specializing in Yucatecan cuisine, the same woman has made corn tortillas for La Cueva for years. My Amate Omelet was a creative, tongue-rewarding world away from the “Mexican” breakfasts served in the U.S. Featuring egg whites with fried plantains, Edam cheese and surprise here… peppermint!, the dish was served over beans, fried chaya (a native Yucatecan plant,) avocado and xcatic chile (also native to Yucatan.) My companion ordered the Charcoaled Campechano Tacos, with “poc chuc” (a Mayan mainstay of charcoaled pork tenderloin marinated with purple roasted onions, sour orange and coriander. It’s also available instead with chicken combined with Valladolid-style sausage. Sitting in a lush garden, sipping steaming coffee and eating such divine fare, I didn’t feel at all like I was in a tourist hub. Both are open for breakfast, lunch and dinner.

La Cueva has a garden-like atmosphere for its restaurant.

After a day of beaching, strolling (three authentic Mayan ruins in Playa Car, worth that stroll!) and relaxing, a cocktail was tempting me. So I headed to Restaurante Tropical, an old fave on the pedestrian people-watching Quinta Avenida. Packed from floor to ceiling with folk art, Tropical is a must in Playa! My enormous mojito was stuffed with limes, mint and cucumbers – as well as a hefty pour of rum. The menu is a tantalizing mix of authentic Yucatecan offerings as well as more known Mexican items. My suggestion: Pollo Xtabentun (chicken sauteed in the local liqueur and honey.) 

Oh la la! is off the main avenue, which is a joy when one wants a quieter ambiance. This upscale bistro could be right at home in New York, San Francisco or even Paris. Sophisticated decor, dinner only, with a diverse international ownership, the menu reflects a disparaging palate. My terrine de foie gras with spun sugar over brioche with a silky goat cheese was truly memorable, a definite AHHHH. Reservations are recommended. 

A delicate and complex presentation of foie gras from Oh LaLa!

I couldn’t believe at first that I was in a busy so-called tourist zone when I stepped into Aldea Corazón’s patio, which encompasses a “dry cenote” (limestone grotto.) With towering, impossibly wide ceiba trees draping over tables, I felt like I was in the jungle. This is the place to order fresh ceviche, a mezcal and passion fruit cocktail served in a terracotta mug with spicy Tajin and then… Sikil P’ak (blend of roasted tomatoes, pepitas, salt and cilantro) Tostadas with cheese and chaya. So many other traditional Mayan choices here – you might wonder how you ever thought you knew Mexican cuisine before this trip! 

Tostadas with roasted tomatoes, pepitas, cheese and chaya from Aldea Corazon. Photo courtesy Aldea Corazon.

Carnivores flock to La Vaca Gaucha, an Argentine-style parilla with a bustling patio and a fun vibe, especially after about 9 p.m. My appetite was enhanced with the fresh-baked bread with chimichurri sauce and then satiated with a varied meat and cheese tray. I found it hard to stop gorging on the smoky Argentine sausage, and I don’t usually like sausage! Paired with an almost too beautiful mezcal cocktail with guava, mango and pineapple purees, topped with hibiscus flowers and a serrano chile, enjoying live music – a delightful evening is a sure thing here. 

Vaca Gaucha is an Argentine-style parilla. Photo courtesy Vaca Gaucha.

I thought I knew something about the increasingly hip traditional Mexican spirit of mezcal, but after a tasting at Axiote, I realized I knew almost nothing. Forget about those worms in the bottom of cheap bottles during your college days. High-quality mezcals can range into the hundreds of dollars, and a tasting at Axiote was an eye (and tongue) opener.

Chef Xavier Perez Stone at Axiote. Photo courtesy Axiote.

Chef Xavier Perez Stone opened Achiote in 2011 following his being crowned as Mexico’s best chef. This highly acclaimed restaurant and mezcaleria is so popular that reservations are almost always needed. Thursday evenings are “Club de Mezcal” nights, with a special menu offering four appetizers and four tastings of mezcal. Perez Stone is passionate about serving up plates with only Mexican-sourced ingredients as well as sustainability.

Tourist trap? Inauthentic? No, not at all. Playa del Carmen is your place for some of the best, authentic, creative and tantalizing gastronomy from Mexico that you can find anywhere. So, stroll down the Quinta Avenida, enjoy people watching and settle in for a culinary adventure!

-Story and photos by Irene Middleman Thomas

Please note, Irene was hosted for portions of her visit to help facilitate the content of this article. However, as is our policy, that does not influence her reporting.