One of the best things about visiting an historic restaurant is the stories. If the walls could talk at Al’s Restaurant in St. Louis, oh, the stories they’d tell! Find out what’s so special about this iconic restaurant from Suzanne Corbett, our Food History Editor. We’re also honored to say Suzanne won an award for this piece, first place in the category “Special Articles: History” in 2021 with the Missouri Professional Communicators, an affiliate of the National Federation of Press Women.
Save this award-winning article to Pinterest.
Eat at Al’s – Al’s Restaurant: A St. Louis Culinary Landmark since 1925
Cuisine served with a side of history is my passion. For me, the road is never too long to travel to have the opportunity to experience a legendary restaurant. Eateries where guests enjoy dining with a past. Those places I seek out are often near or past the century mark. Culinary landmarks, especially those that have survived in their original locations such as Delmonico’s in New York City, Antoine’s in New Orleans and Al’s in St. Louis.
The original business that was in the Al’s Restaurant space. Photo courtesy Al’s Restaurant.
Hungry for more? Click to plan a food tour to St. Louis.
Maybe you haven’t heard of Al’s, yet, but if you love tables with a rich history and culinary legacy, it should make any die-hard foodie’s bucket list. Al’s Restaurant is located a block off the St. Louis riverfront near the Gateway Arch. It has occupied the location since it opened in 1925, a time before the riverfront became a tourist destination. At the turn of the 20th century, the levee was an assemblage old warehouses that served St. Louis’ riverboat commerce. One of those warehouses, a sugar warehouse dating to the 1870s, located at First Street and Biddle, is where Al’s story begins.
Around the late 1890s, the warehouse transited into a saloon, dubbed the Julius Vogel Sugar House Exchange Saloon. The business suffered after prohibition hit in 1919, which perhaps contributed to Vogel’s decision to sell the building and business to its soda truck driver, Al Barroni in 1925. Al’s wife, Louise, thought it was a great opportunity that could provide employment for her family. Al and Louise made the sale and changed the businesses name to Al’s.
It would take decades for Al’s to make the transformation into the high-end, white table cloth steakhouse it became. Until then, Louise ran the saloon and Al kept his day job, drivng the soda truck. It wasn’t long before Louise figured the business could make a few extra bucks by selling food to the workers along the riverfront. As Louise’s grand-daughter Pam Neal, the third generation operating Al’s explained, “It began with my grandmother inviting people back in the kitchen to have egg sandwiches.”
Demand for egg sandwiches along with a bigger menu grew along with the Al’s Restaurant reputation. The business grew under Louise’s watchful eye, which she managed until her death in 1965 when son Al, took over. Soon after, Al’s would suffered a set-back. The building behind Al’s caught fire and a portion fell on their building. It was a twist of fate that brought the opportunity to renovate and relaunch Al’s as a fine dining steakhouse. Renovations that included the creation of its famed riverboat bar. Built to resemble the deck of a Mississippi steamboat, the floor is made from old steamboat deck planks, the woodwork was carved by monks at nearby monastery and the mural on the wall depicting the St. Louis riverfront circa 1860 was painted by a scenic designer from The MUNY (the largest U.S. outdoor theater).
The mural painted on the walls of the bar area in Al’s.
Dining room décor flipped and was redressed with wood paneling and white tablecloths. Tuxedoed wait staff provided table-side service in the manner that defined mid-century upscale luxury that defined fine dining for decades. It was, and remains, an atmosphere that attracts visiting celebrities which, back in the day, included Frank Sinatra, who frequented Al’s whenever he came to town.
As the story goes, Frank came in for dinner one night alone and was seated at his favorite corner table, number eight. He ordered two steaks. When Al asked Sinatra why he ordered two steaks Sinatra replied, “… the second steak for my dog that’s outside in the car with my chauffer.” Al, a dog lover himself, told Sinatra to bring the dog in. Sinatra did and both enjoyed their steak dinner at table eight. Which steak Sinatra ordered has been lost, however, I wouldn’t be surprised if it wasn’t Al’s signature Steak Romano, a butterflied filet stuffed with prosciutto and Romano cheese that’s garlic-seasoned, dusted with breadcrumbs with a side of marsala sauce. It’s just one of the Al’s steakhouse-style preparations you can order. But before you place that order, listen up because the printed menu was lost years ago.
Instead, the Al’s Restaurant menu is recited. It’s the decision Al made back in the 1960s as a way to make the menu a show and tell experience or what we call “interactive,” today. The show begins when the server rolls a cart filled with steaks, chops and seafood to the table. Each is presented with a narrative of the various preparations of the entrees and sides along with featured appetizers.
The Show and Tell Menu at Al’s.
Hungry for more? Read about another historic Inn Suzanne has visited.
Listen for the description of Lamb Ettinger or Al’s Pasta (penne with a tomato cream sauce with a hint of sambuca). These are dishes based on Barroni family recipes developed over nearly 100 years, which are passed down, not written down. That includes the salad dressing and the blue cheese spread with crostini, Al’s amuse-bouche. They are made by chefs who proudly boost a multi-generational connection. Al’s present chef took the job from his mother, who learn the recipes while from Louise.
Dining at Al’s Restaurant is a step back in time. Granted, it’s a style not everyone may embrace. However, for those who love to dine in style will call it divine. A style that gourmets, gourmands and history buffs will toast, especially if you’re lucky enough to find yourself seated at table 8, Sinatra’s table.
Learn more about Al’s Restaurant and make reservations by visiting their website.
— Story and photos, except where mentioned are by Suzanne Corbett
Hungry for more? Read Suzanne’s story about moonshining in Georgia.
Remember to visit Al’s Restaurant when you go to St. Louis by pinning this article to Pinterest.
Nice article and I appreciate your hard work.
Best regards,
Mead Dencker