Think Cancun, Mexico, and long days playing in the surf and sand are probably what come to mind first. But there’s a lot more to discover in Cancun beyond the beaches which is what Real Food Traveler’s Eco-Friendly Food, Travel & Adventure Editor, Jimmy McDonough, found out on a recent visit.
Save this article to Pinterest to help you plan your experience of Cancun beyond the beach. Photos by Jimmy McDonough. Graphic by RealFoodTraveler.com.
Cancun Beyond the Beach: A Delightful and Delicious Day
When a winter escape to soft white sand beaches and warm turquoise waters is needed, Cancun delivers. But is there anything else that merits your attention? My wife, Courtney and I enjoyed a mid-winter getaway to Mexico and are happy to share our day in Cancun beyond the beaches!
These adventures are limited to the Zona Hoteleria (Hotel Zone), making it easy and affordable to access when staying in one of the many popular hotels and resorts perched along that skinny barrier island separating the Caribbean and Laguna Nichupte.
From our hotel (details follow) at the edge of the Zona, we ordered a ride share early to deliver us to the Museo Maya de Cancun. Arriving a few minutes before the museum’s posted opening hours, we expected a long line to get in; that’s what online tour sites suggested to warrant their inflated advanced ticket purchase. Perhaps it is busy at other times of the year, but we were the first and only people there. When the museum staff opened the gates, there was only one another couple waiting to enter. The admission fee is incredibly low, considering the treasures we were about to enjoy.
Museo Maya occupies a large strikingly modern structure with a small gift shop, lockers, and bathrooms. No on-site food or beverage options. Surrounding the structure is a jungle garden with a surprisingly rough and rocky trail to visit several impressive Mayan ruins of temples and homes. Mosquitoes can be bad in rainy season, so bring repellant!
The Museo’s extensive collection of pottery, carved stones, jewelry, and more, brings the ancient culture to life when you take the time to read the interpretive signs (in Spanish and English). The displays provide vivid explanations of Maya culture, history, government, as well as their downfall and eventual conquest by the Spanish. An important takeaway for me was the fact that Mayan descendants, and elements of that ancient indigenous culture, live on today amid the trappings of modernity. We left the Museo profoundly moved and appreciative of this land and its peoples; Cancun is so much more than a playground for international visitors.
Images from the Museo Maya de Cancun.
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Hungry for lunch, we chanced upon nearby Xkat-Ik, a small open-air cafe with views to the Laguna and (oddly) a fleet of Viking-inspired tourist boats. The menu offers locally-inspired Yucatan fare, a few Mexican favorites, and hamburgers. We ordered a couple of drinks, some guacamole to start, and local specialties: Panuchos Tzic (open-face fried tortillas topped with beans, beef, topped with a blend of bitter orange, onion, radish, avocado, and cilantro), Lime Soup (chicken broth topped with tortilla strips, “perfumed with Mayan Lime”) and vegetarian tacos.
Soon our drinks and guacamole arrived. My Mezcalita (a blend of tangy citrus with smoky Mezcal, thankfully not overly sweetened) arrived in a colorful whimsical skull mug and was a perfect accompaniment to the fresh avocado flavors of the guacamole. Courtney ordered the fresh, frozen lemonade with spoonfuls of crushed mint. Our smiling server described their entertainment schedule including traditional Maya music and dance performances, in addition to other musical genres. He encouraged us to return to enjoy that night.
Eating the tasty Panuchos was comical – the crispy tortilla crumbling in my hands, toppings tumbling to the table, sauces dripping all down my fingers. I didn’t care. I delighted in every morsel and licked my fingers clean! The soup was a fresh-tasting comfort food.
After our leisurely lunch sipping refreshing drinks, watching the boats in the Laguna and the swaying palm trees, we reluctantly left – ordering a ride share to visit the shopping district in the central part of the island.
Scenes from our relaxed and tasty meal at Xkat-Ik, across from the Museo Maya de Cancun.
Kulkulcan Plaza is a sprawling indoor mall. On our visit we found the storefronts mostly vacant and not much else to enjoy except for an incredible stained-glass dome depicting the Maya universe over the main entrance. So after a quick spin through the echoing halls, we left and set out on foot along Boulevard Kulkulcan to continue our exploration. Along the way, we passed glitzy hi-rises alongside humble businesses run by locals. A highlight of our walk was a fantastical mural, incredibly detailed, celebrating nature and culture, on the wall of a Bomberos Rescate garage (firefighter station). Just a bit further, we came upon a vividly painted mural of a woman wrapped in flowers. Such unexpected gems!
A striking mural on the side of a fire station, seen while walking in Cancun.
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Across the busy boulevard, on the Laguna side, a scattering of glitzy eateries and billboards promising more glitzy eateries opening soon, as well as modest businesses for work-a-day folks. Then my eye caught a colorful, human-size grinning fish statue with a “Real Cancun Food” sign. “WOW – what a tourist trap! I’d never go there,” I chuckled.
Soon we came upon a marble clad building surrounded by lush, manicured landscaping and whimsical sculptures – La Isla Cancun. This mega outdoor shopping area includes a luxurious designer district, entertainment venues, shops for the masses, a lagoon-facing waterfront with eateries, a giant ferris wheel, canals, public art, and more. We gawked at the luxury store windows, protected by legions of grim-faced door guards, and noticed heavily armed soldiers patrolling. A bit unnerving.
After meandering the designer zone, we wandered the walkways to the other less toney areas, taking in the sights and sounds. Some sections, sterile and cold, could be situated anywhere in the world; other sections had a more authentic Mexican feel, bathed in warm colors with charming bridges over the canals. All very corporate, yes. But the vibe was lively, safe, and comfortable. International tourists and locals mingled, enjoying the perfect January temperature, balmy breezes, and even the sporadic rain showers. Kids ran about the traffic-free plazas, squealing with delight at some of the silly sculptures and the occasional giant Iguanas sunning themselves on the bridges.
La Isla Cancun Mall has both elegant and casual areas within the sprawling shopping and dining area.
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Soon our thoughts turned to dinner, and we were very tempted by the waterfront eateries. Cenacolo, a gorgeous Italian restaurant, was very appealing with giant windows into their kitchen for passersby to watch the crew make fresh pastas; a sign outside described their compelling family history. Their menu is also on display; an impressive array of options. But the prices were a bit steep for us, and we fancied more locally-focused fare, so we passed.
We wandered a bit more, hoping to find a local restaurant serving seafood at a reasonable price. We left La Isla, retracing our steps, and came upon the grinning fish statue proclaiming Real Cancun Food – the very one I had ridiculed earlier! Curious, hungry, and a bit desperate, I pulled up their website and discovered it offered a menu heavy with Yucatan cuisines, was affordable, and had great ratings. So, we approached…
The exterior of El Fish Fritanga in Cancun. It’s casual counter service at street level but something much more downstairs, on the Laguna.
From the street, El Fish Fritanga looks like a simple hut serving up beers and fish tacos at a few counter height tables along the busy street. And it is. But just behind that simple face is a staircase that descends into a spectacular space along the Laguna, with a soaring palapa hut and a dining area on different levels – some tables in the sand and others on an open-air deck. Overhead, decorative light fixtures twinkled… Magical! This split-level, split-personality restaurant was such a surprise.
Our server arrived quickly and was friendly and attentive throughout our meal. We ordered drinks as we perused the menu; an extensive array of seafood items (mostly with Mayan/Mexican/Latin America preparations), as well as pasta, chicken, steak, salads, soups and ceviches. Soon, a delightful boat-shaped platter of chips with different salsas and accompaniments arrived. A DJ played a nice blend of music, setting an upbeat mood. By the time our drinks arrived, we had chosen our meal. To start, we debated over the Camaroncillas (shrimp stew in fried tortilla pockets) or their “World Famous” Pescadillos (fried tortillas filled with nurse shark, tomato sauce, and spices). Tho’ not really sure what to expect, we were feeling adventurous and chose the Pescadillos.
Soon the Pescadillos arrived – a basket of two crispy tortilla hand pies (sort of like less doughy empanadas). Crispy, flavorful, not at all “weird,” we enjoyed trying bites accented with dabs of the different salsas. We were glad to have tried something unknown and a bit outside of our comfort zone!
Our meal at El Fish Fritanga started with drinks, a variety of salsas and accompaniments, fried pescadillos and a sunset view off the deck over the Laguna.
For entrées, Courtney ordered fish tacos. I ordered their house specialty, “Fritangas” (“Grandma’s special spicy edition” proclaims the menu) with fish and a side of Beans Veracruzanos (spicy black beans). Our server cautioned me about the heat level of the fish. Even though I scoffed a bit at the warning (I love spicy and find Yucatan food to be mild), I took his advice and ordered it on the side.
Courtney’s crispy fish tacos were just right for a light dinner. Nothing fancy or unusual, just solid. My entrée provided generous portions of fish, rice, and plantains. I was very glad to heed our server’s advice to keep the fritanga sauce on the side – it was “my body is on fire” spicy! Yet using it sparingly, the sauce accentuated the fish nicely. The rice and plantains were simple and tasty; again, the salsa sampler and spicy fritanga livened them up. Much to my surprise was the plate of Beans Veracruzanos; so deliciously flavorful, not at all spicy to me. I could have made a meal of just those beans with a fresh tortilla!
Clockwise: Light fixtures hang from the high palapa ceiling of El Fish Fritanga; our unique and delicious dessert and entrees.
We asked to take a look at the dessert menu and were surprised when it was presented by our waiter on a tablet in mini-video form – luscious, slow-mo temptations. The regular food menu had been presented on laminated paper so this sudden high-tech offering felt a little odd, especially in a sand-floored palapa hut in Cancun. But, as we all know, desserts have a high markup so it makes sense that they lured people in with the glitz.
Everything looked delicious, including an amazing-looking chocolate cake, so we asked our server for a recommendation. He suggested the Corn Cake for its uniqueness. A true celebration of this native grain, sacred to the Maya, the cake’s texture was akin to bread pudding, accentuated with popcorn and grilled corn kernels, and topped with a creamy vanilla ice cream. A delicious homage to corn. Never has corn tasted better than chocolate!
A closer look at the Corn Cake not to be missed for a taste of history, culture and local cuisine.
Throughout our meal, the idyllic atmosphere gradually grew even more magical. As the sun lowered across the Laguna, the sky glowed coral pink, reflecting off the calm waters. Then a small Mariachi band stopped by, visiting tables to offer a song (for a tip). The DJ took a break to let the traditional guitar and voices take over. The talented musicians were good natured – at one table, they delighted three young children with sweet songs focused on them. Their joyful energy was infectious, and their passionate music filled the space under the palapa.
At one point, Courtney and I locked gazes and realized this was one of those special moments in life. Our day had been full of wonderful surprises with unexpected reflections on history, fun experiences, delicious food, friendly people, and nice talks together.
And all without a beach.
Yes, Cancun’s Zona is built for international tourists; but tucked between the massive resorts, designer boutiques, and glitzy eateries, are opportunities to find authentic Yucatan food and learn about the original peoples and connect with their descendants who call this region of Mexico home.
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Hotels in Cancun Beyond the Beach
We wanted a safe, clean, affordable place to stay without bells and whistles (and steep fees and prices!), and this place was perfect. Situated at one end of the Zona, with no direct beach access or walkability to bars and eateries, it is not ideally situated. However, it offers free (but limited) hotel shuttle services to the airport, beaches, and some Zona attractions. As well, ride shares can be used to quickly visit other areas (as we did). A public bus is available on the Zona island, but does not service this hotel. A paved walking/biking trail could be used for a very long walk (30-45+ minutes) along the Zona to beaches and businesses. We enjoyed our spacious room, with a kitchenette, and well-appointed bathroom. A plentiful breakfast buffet is included – nothing gourmet, very simple. For onsite drinks, lunch, and dinner, there is a pleasant rooftop taco shop (excellent food!) next to one of the pools (there are two on the rooftop). Note: For the airport shuttle, the Residence Inn requires advance reservations and the shuttle may stop at other terminals and run late (we had to order a rideshare when our shuttle was over 15 minutes late).
The pool and view from the rooftop of the Residence Inn Cancun Hotel.
A basic, affordable hotel with free shuttle service to and from the airport on a consistent schedule (every 30 minutes, 24/7). Onsite food is limited to one dining space (also used for the free breakfast). Nice outdoor pool. Friendly staff. Not a pedestrian friendly area, nor very attractive; however, a great choice for easy airport access.
Tipping your shuttle driver (100-200 pesos) is expected and appreciated, so be prepared with cash.
We were not hosted for any portion of this visit. As always, our comments reflect our opinions about our experience.
-Story and photos by Jimmy McDonough, Real Food Traveler’s Eco-Friendly Food, Travel and Adventure Editor
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