Please note: We visited Lumeria Maui in June of 2023, just months before the fires that devastated the west side of the island. But the educational retreat center is located on the North Shore and is welcoming and encouraging visitors. The island of Maui is healing but, as part of that healing, needs tourism dollars to help recover, financially. We were encouraged to share the Maui Nui website with Real Food Traveler readers for ways visitors can help in various ways, before and during their visit. Here, Jimmy McDonough, our Eco-Friendly Food & Travel Editor, describes the experience of Lumeria wellness on Maui.

Save this article to Pinterest to help you plan your visit to Lumeria Maui. Photos and graphic by Courtney Drake-McDonough, Real Food Traveler.

Vast fields of sugar cane once grew throughout Maui, Hawaii, and camps (called plantations) were established to house the workers – mostly brought from desperate peoples around the globe. They would work under the hot sun and in humid conditions, doing back-breaking work in the cane fields, all in hopes of creating a better life for themselves and their families. Many stayed on to establish new lives and communities on Maui, adding their culture to the melting pot that is Hawaii.

One of these former plantations was transformed into an idyllic escape, Lumeria Maui, an “educational retreat center” and not a hotel in the traditional sense. Along a winding road, heading into the uplands from Maui’s North Shore, Lumeria’s modest entrance would be easy to miss. Through the gates, a tranquil Eden welcomes you with gardens, open spaces and views to the Pacific and the plains of central Maui and mountains beyond.

A main building, the oldest wooden structure on Maui, provides large rooms for quiet, luxurious lounging amid spectacular international art and furnishings. It may also be used to host gatherings and celebrations. Lumeria is a favored destination for groups – but also welcomes solo travelers. Children, allowed, may not be a good match for the tranquility promised to all guests.

The main house of Lumeria Maui, the oldest surviving wood structure on the island.

After check-in at a smaller office across the front garden, guests may park and carry their luggage to their room; this may require a bit of meandering through the beautiful garden paths. Pare down your baggage (physically and spiritually) when you visit Lumeria!

Lumeria’s unique philosophy may not be for everyone. Luxurious but not a full-service hotel – you are your own porter, valet, etc. No TV, bar, live music, disco, pool games, golf, no room service, etc. Guests should come with appropriate expectations of services. Sustainability and a light touch on the natural environment are integral to Lumeria. Part of this are the extensive vegetable and fruit plantings that are harvested to feed guests, staff, and community.

There are beautiful areas around every corner at Lumeria.

The barracks rooms that once housed the plantation workers now offer unfussy, minimalist spaces. At the end of one wing, our room was airy and spacious with smooth white walls, black trim, and high ceilings. Windows on three sides connected us with the lush foliage and bright blue Hawaiian sky. A large daybed with soft tasseled pillows offered a cozy spot to nap or read or daydream. Beautiful and restful. The wooden floors creak a bit, rich with history – what would be the stories of those who lived and worked here, far from their native lands? What did they dream of after a day of toiling in the fields? What did they hope to achieve? Lumeria is a place with a soul.

Our calm, restful and very comfortable room at Lumeria Maui, located in former plantation worker lodging.

Hungry for more? Read about the annual Kapalua Wine Festival on Maui.

Lumeria Maui’s amenities include…

Saline swimming pool and hot jacuzzi spa – simple and lovely surrounded by dense foliage on one side and open to views of the plains and mountains beyond. At night, the dark skies overhead are wondrous with stars when seen from the pool.

Meditation huts with a view of the ocean – a wondrous place to watch rain clouds roll in across the waves. Nearby is the hammock forest, where a lazy hour or more can be enjoyed listening to the trade winds in the pines.

For some solo serenity there are meditation huts and many hammocks hanging in the wooded areas of Lumeria, with views of the ocean.

Tour their vegetable gardens where 200 species of plants are organically grown, including onions, bananas, mango, avocado and papaya. An on-staff gardener literally picks bugs off of plants every day to avoid using pesticides of any kind.

Yoga and meditation classes are offered in their studio and outside lawn/gardens. I enjoyed a session with a local instructor who introduced me to the chakras of the body. Her approach was kind and patient – I felt energized and cared for. Other sessions may be available, based on guest demand. In addition to yoga, there are sessions on meditation, mindfulness and other healing arts and metaphysical studies (when we arrived, a “sound bath” session was happening near the labyrinth). There are also classes on horticulture and dance and movement therapies. Nearby are beaches and trails for off-site exploration (our self-guided explorations are described below).

The meditation labyrinth at Lumeria, has beautiful views.

A statue of Buddha is a centerpiece on the grounds of Lumeria Maui.

Dining options on site are limited. A wholesome basic breakfast buffet is provided and included in guest stays – enjoy dining inside or on the large, covered porch. Fixed price dinner at their onsite restaurant, Wooden Crate, is available several nights a week and reservations are required. No other food services are provided.

There are a few tables inside Wooden Crate, Lumeria’s on-site restaurant. This is where the guests’ breakfast is served every morning. We enjoyed sitting outside on the expansive deck.

Lumeria is an oasis of peace and tranquility – it is not a place filled with distractions. Come here to reflect, be still, explore your inner world as you quietly engage and submit to the beauty all around you. Simplicity and authenticity – a sense of place and history. And a perfect home base to explore Maui’s North Shore and Upcountry, including the otherworldly landscapes of Haleakala (learn more on that below). If these are on your Maui, Hawaii, bucket list, Lumeria is the place to be.

BONUS: Exploring beyond Lumeria

The nearby beach town of Pāʻia offers a variety of affordable dining options – here are a couple we enjoyed:

• Paia Fish Market – serving great fresh fish, no-frills style with hefty portions and simple yet delicious preparation. Order at the counter, then find a table (maybe at a community table) and wait. Local brews offered. Busy place – the line spilled out onto the sidewalk several times during our meal. Note: Their Lahaina location was destroyed. Helping them in Pāʻia is beneficial.
• Café Mambo – Funky joint with duck nachos. Owned by a transplanted Italian, the menu reflects that heritage – my duck nachos (a specialty) was topped with a salsa spiced more akin to a marinara. Burgers and sandwiches offer generous portions. Lots of local craft brew options as well as wine. Very casual, bright space with art from local artists. Friendly service.

Pāʻia is also the closest town to buy snacks or a bottle of wine to enjoy (quietly) back at your room; Lumeria does not offer alcohol on premises.

Grilled fish, and fish and chips with salad at Paia Fish Market.

Mambo Cafe is known for their Duck Tacos.

Nearby off-site activities we enjoyed on a long day’s drive from Lumeria to explore Upcountry Maui:

Not far from Lumeria is the town of Makawao, a charming small upcountry Maui village that is blessedly not overly touristy. Wander about the eateries, coffee and tea cafes, bakery, gift shops, art galleries, and a small food truck courtyard with local artisans among the picnic tables. The general store is a hub of the community and a fascinating place to meander about for mainlanders- full of locally produced veggies, fruits and food items; the in-house liquor store offers a full array of wines and hard liquors. Local craft beers and national brands are sold. Some ready-to-eat items are available, as well. During our visit, posters around town invited one and all to the annual Rodeo- a big surprise to this traveler who never imagined cowpokes on a Pacific island. Upcountry Maui is likely the furthest west outpost of America’s Wild West!

The drive through the Maui uplands offers lots of delightful surprises – expansive views, lush jungle, open pastures, ranches, roadside fruit/vegetable/flower stands from locals (honor system), etc. The scenery tempts your eyes to wander off the road, so be careful on the narrow winding roads – watch out for sheer cliffs, cyclists, farm equipment, horses, pedestrians, other travelers, etc.

If tea drinking is, well, your cup of tea, stop by Maui Tea Farm. Tours of their tea farm are available (fees charged, no self-tours) and in their gift shop you can enjoy tastings, or just order a cup of tea to relax with in the garden.

Stop in to the Maui Tea Farm for tours, tastes, and shopping.

The peak of our visit was Haleakala National Park. A seemingly never-ending climb up the slopes through changing eco-systems (slow down for Hawaii’s NeNe geese!) is thrilling and a bit scary. Eventually you emerge from clouds to the bright, sunlit and barren upper slopes that are more akin to Mars than Earth. At the caldera peak of this dormant volcano, 10,023 feet above the crashing Pacific, you can see other Hawaiian islands, bizarre flora, and observatories for both civilian and military use. Many hiking trails offer ways to slow down and get closer to Haleakala’s beauty. A small visitor center offers plenty of information and history. Dress in layers (it can be freezing at the top even if the jungle below sizzles!); bring water, sunscreen, a sun hat to protect yourself from the intense high-altitude sunlight.

It’s one dramatic view after another from the paths of Haleakala National Park.

To learn more about visiting Lumeria Maui, visit their website here. And to learn about visiting Maui and helping the island heal, visit this website.

-Story by Jimmy McDonough, Real Food Traveler co-owner and Eco-Friendly Food, Travel & Adventure Editor. 
  Photos by RealFoodTraveler.com.

Hungry for more? Get an authentic recipe for Maui’s iconic Mai Tai cocktail.

Please note, we were hosted guests of Lumeria Maui to help facilitate this article. However, as is always our policy, that does not influence our opinion or focus on providing useful information for RealFoodTraveler.com readers.