Writer Meryl Pearlstein takes us to Spain for a culinary exploration through a varied, historic and thriving region, Aragón.

Save this article to Pinterest to help you plan your visit to Aragón. Photos by Meryl Pearlstein. Graphic by RealFoodTraveler.com.

Following Garnacha Through Aragón

From Zaragoza’s vermouth bars to the mountain landscapes of Teruel and Albarracín, a journey through Aragón reveals how wine, history and regional cooking are deeply intertwined.

Aragón sits inland between Madrid and Barcelona, but despite its location along one of Spain’s major transit corridors, the region still feels surprisingly overlooked by international travelers. Made up of the provinces of Zaragoza, Huesca and Teruel, Aragón developed through Roman, Muslim, Jewish and Christian influences that are still visible in its architecture, food traditions, wine culture and daily life.

I traveled to Aragón to better understand the region’s gastronomy and its Garnacha-producing areas, particularly Campo de Borja and Calatayud, but the trip was about much more than wine. From Zaragoza’s tapas bars and grand plazas to the mountain terrain around Teruel and Albarracín, food and history seemed inseparable. Garnacha became one of the clearest ways of understanding the region and why Aragón is often called the “World Capital of Garnacha.”

What struck me most was how naturally history continues to shape daily life here. Roman ruins sit beneath modern streets. Mudéjar towers rise above cafés and plazas. Vineyards surround medieval towns. Markets, tapas bars, monasteries and wine routes remain closely tied to the land.

ZARAGOZA: ARAGÓN’S HISTORIC AND CULINARY CAPITAL

Everything in Zaragoza seems to flow outward from Plaza del Pilar, the monumental square stretching alongside the Ebro River. The Basílica de Nuestra Señora del Pilar dominates the skyline with its domes and towers, drawing pilgrims and visitors eager to see the site where the Virgin Mary is said to have appeared to Saint James.

Nearby, La Seo, the Catedral del Salvador, reveals the city’s architectural evolution. Its exterior wall, patterned with glazed tile and geometric brickwork, is an impressive example of Aragón’s Mudéjar design, the style that emerged after Christian kingdoms expanded into formerly Islamic territories and incorporated Muslim craftsmanship into Christian buildings. Gothic elements sit beside Mudéjar brickwork, with Renaissance and Baroque additions appearing as well.

La Seo, the Catedral del Salvador.

The Palacio de la Aljafería preserves traces of Zaragoza’s Islamic past through its arches, courtyards and carved decoration. Dating from the 11th century, the palace is one of Spain’s most important examples of Islamic architecture.

Roman Zaragoza survives beneath the present-day city as Caesaraugusta, founded around 14 BCE. There, remains of the Roman theatre, forum, baths and sections of the old walls are integrated into museums, churches and streets.

Caesaraugusta ruins.

Zaragoza also has strong ties to Francisco de Goya, who was born in Aragón and trained in the region before becoming one of Spain’s defining painters. In addition to the Goya Museum, the artist’s work appears in the cupola of the coreto in the Basilica, in several smaller museums and in rotating exhibits.

The Basilica in Zaragoza.

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Outside the historic center, Zaragoza moves to a different rhythm. Along Paseo de la Independencia, the city’s grand central boulevard, broad pedestrian promenades run between rows of trees, historic apartment buildings, cafés and boutiques. Covered arcades known as “los porches” line much of the Paseo, creating shaded walkways where locals linger over coffee, sip vermouth (vermut) and meet friends for late-afternoon conversation. Like the passeggiata tradition in Italy, the paseo isn’t about destination, it’s about slowing down.

Vermut is plentiful in Aragon and part of the culture.

Stores like El Corte Inglés and Massimo Dutti reinforce Zaragoza’s contemporary side, while the city’s blend of modernity and history extends naturally into its food culture. Agricultural traditions from the Ebro Valley, regional trade routes, and centuries of farming helped create a present-day dining scene that encompasses markets, vermouth and wine bars, tapas counters, pastry shops and more formal restaurants.

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At Mercado Central de Zaragoza, borage, seasonal mushrooms, cured meats, cheeses, olive oils and regional sweets fill the stalls. Locals and visitors search out fresh produce, seafood and meat, encouraged by vendors to sample jamón, cheeses and other regional specialties.

Mercado Central de Zaragoza.

From there, it’s an easy walk to El Tubo, Zaragoza’s tightly packed tapas district, where the streets narrow and the atmosphere grows louder and more animated as diners move from one crowded bar to another. Bodegas Almau, a favored first stop, is known for vermouth and anchovies, followed by a pause for croquetas drizzled with béchamel at Taberna Doña Casta. Indoor counters, outdoor bar seating, and tucked-away patios and terraces line the mural-covered alleyways.

A street in the El Tubo neighborhood.

The cadence here is less about sitting for a formal meal and more about meandering through the neighborhood over several hours. Glasses clink against marble counters while bartenders slice jamón and deliver banderillas of pickled vegetables and montaditos brushed with olive oil and garlic.

For more traditional dining, Casa Lac highlights vegetables sourced in Aragón, including borage, with its cucumber-like flavor, and cardoon, a type of thistle. La Flor de Lis presents creative small plates rooted in regional cuisine. At La Clandestina, dishes featuring truffles and white asparagus point to Zaragoza’s increasingly contemporary culinary direction. Garnacha and vermut appear on beverage menus throughout.

The city’s pastry traditions remain equally strong. Fantoba, more than 170 years old, sells turrones (similar to nougat and dating to the 15th century), bombones (filled chocolates) and guirlache (almond brittle) in a historic setting. Its neighbor, Capricho, updates traditional chocolate-making with flavors like vermut and truffle. At La Bendita, modern coffee and dessert culture encourages the same unhurried pace that defines much of the city itself.

GARNACHA AND ARAGÓN

Outside Zaragoza, the terrain gradually opens into vineyard country and broad stretches of farmland. Garnacha, known internationally as Grenache, has deep roots in Aragón dating back centuries. The grape provides one of the clearest ways of understanding how the region changes from one area to another.

The Campo de Borja DO lies northwest of Zaragoza beneath the Sierra del Moncayo, while Calatayud DO sits farther southwest at higher elevations marked by rougher terrain and poorer soils. Those geographic differences, along with Aragón’s many old vines, influence the wines as much as the winemaking itself.

In Campo de Borja, an area often called the “Empire of Garnacha,” Garnacha Tinta (red) wines are rounder with softer acidity. In Calatayud, higher altitudes and harsher day-night conditions produce more structured vintages with minerality and greater concentration. Compared with Rhône versions, Aragón’s Garnacha feels more directly tied to terrain and climate.

One surprise was Garnacha Blanca (white), which receives far less international attention than its red counterpart. An easy-drinking white, in Aragón, the wine often shows more texture and body than expected, with herbal notes and hints of almond.

CAMPO DE BORJA AND THE GARNACHA ROUTE

The countryside surrounding Campo de Borja helps explain why Garnacha remains central to Aragón’s identity. Vineyards dominate the region, and monasteries, agricultural villages and small local restaurants underscore how closely wine culture stays tied to the land.

Approaching Monasterio de Veruela beneath the Sierra del Moncayo, the countryside is dry, rugged and windswept. Three vineyards later, the former Cistercian monastery appears at the end of an entry way lined with olive trees. Arcaded cloisters, stone passageways and surrounding gardens highlight the historical relationship between monastic life and agriculture. Founded in 1145, the monastery once controlled significant farmland in the region and helped establish local viticulture.

At Bodegas Borsao, tastings of Borsao and Tres Picos wines demonstrated the range Garnacha can achieve, from approachable everyday wines to deeper expressions produced from older vines.

Wine tasting experience at Bodegas Borsao.

Nearby, lunch at Restaurant Rodi in Fuendejalón paired local flavors with regional wines. A whole baked fish, white asparagus drizzled with olive oil, and flan reflected ingredients central to the region’s cuisine. In this working agricultural village, vineyards and farmland extend nearly to the edge of town, reinforcing how daily life continues to revolve around farming and wine production.

TARAZONA

An hour west of Zaragoza, Tarazona rises beneath the Moncayo mountains with towers, churches, brickwork and tightly packed buildings climbing the hillside.

The city began under the Romans as Turiaso and later expanded under Islamic rule before becoming part of the Kingdom of Aragón during the Reconquest. Christian, Muslim and Jewish influences are notable throughout the compact historic center, with the irregular streets of the former judería (Jewish quarter) still apparent among city landmarks.

Tarazona’s Cathedral of Santa Maria de la Huerta illustrates these cultural transitions, combining Gothic structure with UNESCO-recognized Mudéjar brickwork and later architectural additions. A more recent transformation, the Plaza de Toros Vieja, originally built in 1790 as a bullfighting ring, functions as a residential square, with apartments and balconies built directly into the encircling structure.

CALATAYUD AND THE EXTREME VINEYARD ROUTE

South of Campo de Borja, the terrain around Calatayud becomes noticeably drier and more exposed. Vineyards spread farther apart across rougher countryside and towns become increasingly separated.

Those harsher conditions directly affect the wines. At Bodegas San Alejandro, labels such as Las Rocas, Evodia and Baltasar demonstrate how dramatically altitude and terrain can alter Garnacha. The winery’s contemporary tasting spaces, colorful artwork, neon lighting and Underground BSA Experience signal a more experimental approach to the grape, including rosés and orange wines alongside traditional reds and whites.

Within the rugged countryside, Monasterio de Piedra feels especially unexpected. The park’s waterfalls, caves, stone bridges and dense greenery contrast sharply with the dry terrain. During a rainy hike, forceful cascades rushed beside me next to narrow pathways and staircases carved into the rock.

Calatayud itself has a quieter, rough-edged feel. Hills rise around the historic center, where steep streets, stone buildings, churches and remnants of the city’s Jewish quarter reveal centuries of history. Castles and walls harken back to the town’s Islamic origins and fortifications. The ornate Collegiate Church of Santa María la Mayor and the Basilica Collegiate Church of the Holy Sepulcher further underscore the city’s longstanding religious importance among Christians as well.

Rooftops in Calatayud.

Dinner at Mesón de la Dolores featured regional specialties including migas aragonesas, a traditional dish built around stale bread; borage with rice and shrimp; bacalao (cod); and artichokes with jamón de Teruel. In this working farm and vineyard city, the connection between cuisine and local wines remained unmistakable.

TERUEL

Continuing south to Teruel, the terrain becomes cooler, drier and more mountainous.

Teruel is best known for its extraordinary Mudéjar architecture, particularly the elaborately patterned brick towers decorated with glazed ceramic tiles that rise above the compact medieval center. The Catedral de Teruel, with its painted wooden ceiling and intricate bell tower, is a defining landmark.

Offering a counterpoint to the town’s lively central plaza, Iglesia y Torre de San Pedro invites visitors to its cloister and elevated ándito (walkway) for quieter views of the tower and the beautiful stained glass panels.

A medieval legend that still resonates, Los Amantes of Teruel tells the tragic story of Diego and Isabel, two lovers forbidden to marry because of class, money and family. The mausoleum containing their sculpted tombs is one of the city’s most visited sites, with the figures lying side by side, hands extended but not touching.

Los Amantes of Teruel.

Plaza del Torico forms the social center of the city. Arcades lined with cafés, restaurants and shops surround the tiny bull perched on a fountain in the middle of the square. Regional products like jamón cured in the cold mountain air, lamb, black truffles and sheep’s milk cheeses appear on many menus.

Teruel warrants evening exploration as well. At night, the decorative architecture of the plaza is illuminated to colorful effect, creating a striking contrast with the Mudéjar towers.

Not far from my hotel, Palacio La Marquesa, Flanagan’s Irish Pub was another visual surprise. The popular pub is filled with U2 memorabilia covering walls and ceilings, and Irish beer replaces Garnacha as the drink of choice. After days spent immersed in Aragón’s wine culture and medieval history, the pub’s devotion to Bono and The Edge felt perfectly at home in Teruel’s eclectic atmosphere.

Flanagan’s Irish Pub.

ALBARRACÍN

From Teruel, the road climbs into the Sierra de Albarracín, where the terrain becomes steeper, quieter, and the towns even more isolated.

Albarracín appears almost suspended above its surroundings, the town’s pinkish-reddish buildings stacked along the rocky hillside beneath defensive walls dating back to the 10th and 11th centuries. Houses lean over impossibly narrow cobblestoned streets, balconies jut outward above staircases, and the town’s medieval layout follows the contours of the mountain itself. A city designed long before cars were invented, walking (and climbing) are required here. The Cathedral of Albarracín and the nearby plaza provide sweeping views over the river gorge and surrounding hills.

Although most bodegas and cafés were closed during my visit, a stop at La Casa de la Quesería at the base of the stone stairway offered an intimate look at Aragón’s food traditions. The affable owner walked me through the cheesemaking process, explaining how aging, milk treatment and production methods affect flavor and texture, from pasteurized cheeses to those made entirely from raw milk.

Just outside Albarracín, in rural Tramacastilla, El Batán offers one of Aragón’s best-known fine dining experiences, elevating local mountain ingredients like black truffles, mushrooms, game and river fish into Michelin-noted tasting menus. The restaurant’s wine program emphasizes Garnachas from both Campo de Borja DO and Calatayud DO.

Steep pathways in Albarracin.

CONCLUSION

What stayed with me most about Aragón was how inseparable the region’s food and wine are from the landscapes and histories surrounding them. Wines and ingredients change with elevation, soil, and climate just as the cities and towns shift from Roman ruins and Mudéjar towers to mountain villages and vineyard country.

Traveling from Zaragoza’s crowded tapas bars and vermouth culture to the quieter areas around Calatayud, Teruel and Albarracín, I came to understand Aragón less as a single destination and more as a series of histories still visible at the table, in the glass and across the landscape itself.

To learn more, visit the websites for Aragon, Zaragoza and Teruel. And for a wealth of information about Spain in general, use this website.

-Story and photos by Meryl Pearlstein

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