For us Real Food Travelers, Anthony Bourdain combined a passion for the art of food and the need for travel. The new movie, “Tony” provides a raw but interesting glimpse into his backstory and early introduction into his future life. 

See the movie “Tony” for the start of Anthony Bourdain’s work and personal journey. Movie poster courtesy of A24.

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For those who appreciate Anthony Bourdain’s multiple culinary travel shows, or his books, including his NYT bestseller Kitchen Confidential: Adventure in the Culinary Underbelly, Tony is a must see. For those who don’t know him or don’t care, it may not be worth your while. The film has many flaws. The pacing is slow. Repetitious close-up shots of Tony’s brooding face get tiresome (we get it – enough already!). There are some unnecessary tangential stories about secondary characters that don’t tell us anything about Anthony.

Tony depicts a pivotal summer where a college-age Bourdain finds his life’s passion. It is a brutal journey, and Anthony (aka Tony, played masterfully by Dominic Sessa) is a snotty brat. He deserves all the lickings he is given, and then some. As he described himself in Kitchen Confidential:

“I was, to be frank, a spoiled, miserable, narcissistic, self-destructive and thoughtless young lout and badly in need of a good ass-kicking.”

And boy does Tony get that whuppin’! His summer coming of age is full of bruises, burns, blood, substance abuse, disappointment, and endless cold dousing slaps in the face. He unexpectedly lands in a cramped grungy fish shack, full of dangers, and sanitation violations. This steamy, sweaty kitchen hosts a ragtag team eking out a living as they hurl insults and dishware at each other – yet share a meal at the end of every shift, like a family. For Tony, this kitchen is REAL and ALIVE, unlike the stodgy, ivy-slathered walls of academia he was accustomed to. In this dingy crucible, his life’s passion ignites.

Unlike most culinary-centric films, most of the film’s food scenes are not preciously composed foodie porn, and the “behind the scenes” of this kitchen makes one question the safety of eating out! Notable exceptions are the scenes of crafting Lobster Thermidor (mouth-watering), making ketchup from scratch (with seawater?!) and the arduous work of hosting a beach clam bake (looks so fun!).

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Knowing Anthony’s eventual death by suicide weighed heavily in my thoughts during the film. I could not help but look for clues to explain this future, which is not fair. Dime store psychoanalysis is not the purpose of this film. Tony provides insights to this man’s life journey but cannot explain what led him decades later to cut his life short.

With all its flaws, the film delivers a compelling story marked by moments when you really are not sure what will happen next. Will Tony continue making terrible decisions? Or will he turn to the light and do what is right?

After spending the entire movie dragging us through the grease, Tony offers a surprisingly hopeful ending for anyone who feels lost in their own life.

If you or someone you know is having thoughts of suicide, call 988 immediately for help.

Tony is now playing in select theaters. To learn more, visit the A24 website.

-By Jimmy McDonough, RealFoodTraveler.com Eco-Friendly Food, Travel & Adventure Editor

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