One of the most interesting parts about pursuing culinary travel is being able to hone in on a specific ingredient that is local, and iconic to a region. That ingredient, although it may be made different ways by different people, is so much a part of the culture that it appears in numerous dishes. Something as simple as cheese, for instance, is an essential part of Chihuahua Mexican food. Come along on a food tour to discover just what is Chihuahua cheese, and found a bounty of flavors, traditions, and history.

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Discovering the Cheesy Side of Chihuahua, Mexico

I’m a great fan of everything cheese—quesadillas, queso dip, exotic hand-made cheeses, and more. So, when I heard we were going to stop by places where they made cheese on our tour of Cultural Chihuahua, Mexico, I was excited and more than ready to do some tasting.

Cheese was not originally part of the diet of indigenous people of Mexico. It was introduced by the Spanish conquistadors who brought with them dairy animals—sheep, goats, and cattle. They also were cheese-makers and ultimately modified the cheeses to meet the preferences of the indigenous people. Today, in Mexico, the various types of Mexican cheeses are the most sought after although we found out there are communities in Mexico making traditional European cheeses. There are also regional cheeses, like those we discovered in the northern state of Chihuahua.

Types of Mexican Cheese in Chihuahua: Asadero in Villa Ahumada

As we crossed the border from El Paso into Ciudad Juarez, Mexico our itinerary indicated our first stop would be Restaurante El Paisano along the highway to Chihuahua City. Part of our breakfast would include the local specialty, Asadero cheese (queso asadero). As we approached Villa Ahumada, we saw a sign for Asadero cheesemakers but continued on to the restaurant.

We had heard that Villa Ahumada was famous for their quesadillas and I was intrigued. How could a plain quesadilla garner such fame? We walked into the wood-paneled restaurant, reminiscent of many rural eateries in the U.S. with farmers wearing cowboy hats enjoying their eggs and tortillas, framed pictures of John Deere farm equipment, and interesting signs on the walls, many in English.

Our group was seated at a large table set with several types of salsas and a creamy looking green chile sauce made with whey. After drink orders were taken, the smiling waitresses appeared with platters of house-made flour tortillas filled with a white creamy cheese. These were the famous quesadillas made with Asadero cheese—thick, creamy, and not a hint of oil. We first tried the quesadillas without salsa. The consistency was reminiscent of string cheese because it’s made using a process where the cheese is stretched and kneaded to produce a stringy texture. Little by little, we ordered something to go with our cheesy feast. I wanted to try the beans and others ordered burritos with fillings like chicken and vegetables. The asadero cheese was delicious but we were then told we weren’t done with our experience and would be introduced to even more mouth-watering Mexican food as we traveled a little farther south.

Thick and very cheesey quesadillas in Chihuahua.

We scrambled into the van and headed a mile or so down the road. As we approached an open building with food stalls in front, men dressed in white urged us to park and come in, and we did. This was a popular stop for those traveling from Ciudad Juarez to the state capital, Chihuahua. It was this long row of food vendors that contributed to Villa Ahumada being dubbed the “Quesadilla and Burrito Capital”.

A roadside food vendor in Villa Ahumada.

You could order a burrito or quesadilla with guisados (shredded meat in a sauce, ground meat, vegetables, dried meats, beans, eggs and chorizo, and more) or just plain cheese wrapped in a thin milky white tortilla. And, there were pots of that whey-based green chile sauce simmering, in case you wanted to add that to your meal. Everything was fresh and most was cooked to order. The tables behind the food carts were clean and there was plenty of room for even busloads of people to be seated.

Cheese fanatics could purchase a variety of cheeses from refrigerator cases to take with them including Queso Menonito, which were would soon to learn about.

Whey and green chile salsa simmers in a traditional pottery bowl at a roadside stand.

Types of Mexican Cheese in Chihuahua: Mennonite Cheese

I was surprised to find out that there were approximately 100,000 Mennonites living in Mexico with most, about 90,000, living in the state of Chihuahua. Most emigrated via Canada after the Mexican Revolution when Mexico welcomed people who could start farms and businesses and add value to the Mexican economy. The Mennonites were seeking places to live where they could educate their children as they preferred and the Mexican government allowed them the freedom to do this. Today, as you travel through Chihuahua, you’ll see vast farms and businesses owned by entrepreneurial Mennonite families, many of whom are still living traditionally (and speaking a Dutch-German dialect) while others have taken on modern ways.

A Menonite kitchen in the Museo y Centro Cultural Menonita.

As we traveled by apple orchards and fields of produce in Cuauhtémoc, we turned down a dirt road toward a huge barn-like building, and saw the sign— Museo y Centro Cultural Menonita (Mennonite Museum and Cultural Center). Inside the large building is a reproduction of a typical Mennonite home as well as a large area for farm equipment, some of it antique. By taking the guided tour (in English) we learned about how the Mennonite people live and we picked up such tidbits as how differently the “liberal” people live. As we toured the reproduction of a home, we found out why, for traditionalists, simplicity is cast aside for some household items if they are functional. For example, you can have gorgeous painted china, or an art calendar, or fancy clock as they are functional items. In the gift shop you can purchase Mennonite-made items and Mennonite Cheese which is a favorite of tourists passing through the area.

Creamy Mennonite cheese (Queso Menonito) in Chihuahua.

Mennonite Cheese, also called Chihuahua cheese and Menonita cheese, is a very light-yellow color and is more like a light cheddar than the creamy white Asadero cheese we had tasted earlier. It’s a semi-soft cheese made from pasteurized or raw cow’s milk and is compressed like is done in making cheddar cheese. It’s used as a melting cheese and is great for fondue.

While the Mennonites first started making the cheese, it is now made by outside companies and is sold all over Mexico. In the Cuauhtémoc area, you’ll find the original style of cheese sold in refrigerator cases in restaurants, gift shops, and by Mennonite dairy farmers.

When You Visit Chihuahua
We toured as part of a SATW (Society of American Travel Writers) post-conference group and our guides were Cesar Castellanos owner of Copper Canyon Expeditions and a manager with Visita Juarez. It is recommended that you travel with a guided group if you are new to Chihuahua or are concerned about any potential danger. With a knowledgeable guide and a good dose of common sense, travel in Mexico can be very safe.

Many travelers visit the northern area of Chihuahua on their way to the scenic Copper Canyon (Barrancas del Cobre) and/or to take the El Chepe Train.

— Story and photos by Elizabeth Rose

Helpful resources: TripAdvisor can help you get there and plan where to stay. Many people fly into El Paso to then go to Chihuahua, Mexico.

Hungry for more? Read some of the other articles RealFoodTraveler.com has published about other areas to explore in Mexico including Guanajuato, Valle de Bravo, and a cooking school in Mayakoba.

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